Showing posts with label Backpacking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Backpacking. Show all posts

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Challenges

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

The Four State Challenge had claimed its first victim.  With 10 miles remaining in our 43.5-mile quest, our group of five was reduced to four.  Those left standing were fading fast...

Before we reveal what happened to our fallen comrade, we've got to rewind for a second.

I actually heard about the Four State Challenge while hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.  Traveling across Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and into Pennsylvania in 24 hours had a sadistic allure that I could not shake.  After failing the 24-24-24 drinking challenge in California, I had to mentally move on to another.  The Four State Challenge would be my shot at redemption.  

Luckily, I was able to recruit four willing souls to join me on this endeavor.  All of them happen to be former University of Rochester Cross Country teammates of mine.  Each of them is a wonderful combination of part competitive athlete, part goofball.  They are weapons of endurance.  Above all, these are the type of handsome men that anyone would want to make memories with.  

 
Jon, Craig, Brian, and Tyle join me at the first border crossing 

The first thing you have to know about the Four State Challenge is that the sign in the photograph above is misleading.  According to Google Maps, the actual Virginia-West Virginia border is 20 yards east.  We walked together until we fully crossed the state line before officially starting this journey at 8:30am.  Upon setting foot in West Virginia, we sang the University of Rochester alma mater, The Genesee.  This is a standard URXC tradition, and I'm glad with continued it throughout the day.  I'm also very thankful for Craig's thoughtfulness in bringing a case of Mountain Dews. 

"Full many fair and famous streams beneath the sun there be,
Yet more to us than any seems our own dear Genesee.
We love thy banks and stately falls for to our minds they bring,
Our dear old alma mater's halls where sweetest memories cling!"

Singing these lyrics across the cataracts of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, I hoped these words weren't sacrilegious.

Our brief jaunt through West Virginia included a stop into the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters.  I got my thru-hiker picture taken, which will be on display in the Class of 2016 yearbook, and we met another U of R alum working in the office.  

More interestingly, we walked through the historic town of Harpers Ferry.  John Brown led a raid on the arsenal here in a bold effort to initiate an armed slave revolt in 1859.  While the raid was squashed faster than my AT speed record attempt, John Brown's actions were a catalyst for great changes to come in the following decade.  I've always been interested in John Brown, as I've visited his final resting place in Lake Placid, NY on numerous occasions. 

 
ATC Headquarters in Harpers Ferry, WV

 
Washington Monument in Maryland

Our virile quintuplet crossed into Maryland triumphantly singing The Genesee once more.  With complete disregard for the task at hand, we took liberties exploring seemingly harmless side trips.  Maryland's Washington Monument comes to mind, as does an unwarranted pit stop at a restroom to take a photograph...  We even danced uncontrollably as we crossed the overpass of I-70.  My apologies to anyone sensitive to indecent exposure. 

 

Men on a mission, we decided to pick up the pace.  The weather forecast called for biblical rains, incessant winds, and hail.  This prediction finally caught up to us.  Omnipotent forces (i.e. a cold front) attempted to smite us down.  The trail turned into raging rapids. 

 
 The beginning of the storm

Thankfully we were spared, but as darkness fell fatigue really set in.  All of those little side trips really did take a toll on us.  Jon, after what I assume was a direct result of back-to-back excessive bachelor/bachelorette partying with Craig & Courtney and 12-hour EMT shifts, was the first to succomb to the Four State Challenge's might.  He fought valiantly, but we had to barge into a full AT shelter at 11:30am to lay him down.  "We'll be back in 3 hours to retrieve him," I promised the rudely awakened thru-hikers.  They were very accommodating.  

Craig, Brian, Tyle, and I had 10 more miles to go.  These miles included a massive boulder field.  

 
Authentic grimace by Craig depicts our toil

We tried to keep our spirits up as Pennsylvania drew near.  Brian was starting to become incoherent as we arrived at Pen Mar Park and the Mason Dixon Line.  18 hours and 52 minute later, we did it!

 
Victory!

Craig was thoughtful enough to have a manly dessert waiting for us at his car.  A cake with pink frosting!  What a guy.  To Craig, Brian, Jon, and Tyle, thank you for being a highlight of this Calendar Year!  

Two days later, and day 40 overall since Springer Mountain in Georgia, I made it to Pine Grove Furnace Park and the halfway point of the Appalachian Trail!  It took 60 minutes, but I did manage to complete the illustrious Half Gallon Ice Cream Challenge.  Someone claimed to eat the entire half gallon in 19 minutes earlier this year!  We really are ravenous. 

Pennsylvania, while emotionally difficult due to the amount of rocks on trail and a complete absence of wilderness, did include new characters...

Blacksmith, Shoe, and California Chrome all completed the Half Gallon Challenge with me.  Elle was also there for emotional support, which I needed to finish my final pint.  Mishap and Blacksmith provided other thru-hikers with trail magic the following day.  Garrett from California was nice enough to buy Sunshine and me some pizza.  I had a lovely encounter with Sweet Potato, Grouse (glad that I got your clothing bag back to you), Badger, and Round 2 all joined me for a lovely meal at Anile's Pizzeria in Boiling Springs, PA. 

The pizza kindness continued as Mountain Goat, Chopper, Bombadil, and Goldberry all gave me a slice or two at a shelter.  Then a trail angel named Estelle offered me a ride back to the trail when I was eating lonesomely at a Five Guys.  Most people didn't acknowledge my existence because I looked like bonafide hikertrash, but Estelle didn't mind!  We even hiked for 10 minutes together along the AT with her daughter Emily and grandchildren!  The kids had never been on the AT before, and their faces really lit up!  I'm told they haven't stopped talking about it since.  My "Future Dad" trail name was deemed appropriate as we inspected caterpillars on tree trunks and got jazzed up about the plain notion of being outside.  The trail did seem much more exciting after being grounded by that experience with youthful eyes.  

Pennsylvania's lack of wildness was best exemplified at Delaware Water Gap.  In what could be a pristine location, we now find the endless noise of Interstate 80, toll booths, and trains.  Roads, roads, and more roads from Boiling Spring to this spot was difficult to tolerate.  It's not the rocks that bothered me, it's the encroachment of civilization.  Mining scars, telephone poles, unnecessary access roads...  It all comes to an end in the most unlikely place imaginable: New Jersey. 

 
Raccoon Ridge in the Kittatinny Mountains of NJ

Yes, I am declaring that New Jersey's Appalachian Trail will rejuvenate your thru-hike.  It was in New Jersey that I finally had silence.  I noticed birds chirping again.  I could fully collect my thoughts and enjoy a sense of peacefulness.  Porcupines and woodpeckers were everywhere.  Deer!  Bears!  Sunfish pond in New Jersey is the first natural body of water encountered on the whole trail so far!  Wow.  New Jersey?!?  One of my best moments on trail was at New Jersey's Wallkill National Wildlife Refuge at night.  Fireflies flickered across the vast swamp like a scene out of some romantic love movie.  The nature goodness continues into New York and Connecticut as well.  Harriman State Park and your journey along the Housatonic River truly revitalize you.  I am so happy to be hiking the Appalachian Trail!

I also met a great group of hikers named Ginger Patch, Caboose, Sweeper, and Food Bag.  I like the cut of their collective jibs.  I keep bumping into these sneaky fast hikers, including most recently at a surprise trail magic spot in Connecticut!  I hope to see them and all the Pennsylvania hikers again. 

 
Trail magic with Food Bag and Caboose

 
We need moments like this.  Ginger Patch reclining. 

The many miles on trail may fade into obscurity someday.  As will the days of our lives if we let them.  But I'll never forget the big moments with friends.  Let's end this post by harkening back to the Four State Challenge.

18 hours and 52 minutes after leaving Virgina, Craig, Brain, Tyle, and I were primed to finish what we started.  Exhausted.  Aching.  Forcing smiles.  Standing at the Mason Dixon Line, we were still in Maryland when we collected ourselves and sung in unison:

"As flows the river's gathering force along her steadfast way, 
May we along life's devious course grow stronger day by day (Everybody!)
And may our hearts where er' we roam forever loyal be, 
To our beloved College home beside the Genesee!"

And at that very moment, we stepped into Pennsylvania.  Euphoria. 

Thursday, May 12, 2016

Pursuing the Fastest Known Time

By Tyler "Future Dad" Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

Using my trekking poles as makeshift crutches, I hobbled up the winding road towards Fontana Village.  Five days and 164 miles into the Appalachian Trail journey, I was already experiencing excruciating pain.  Three separate cars stopped to offer me a ride, but I had to refuse.  No hitches, no trail magic, no cutting corners, these are the main tenants of a self-supported thru-hike.  Finding that the General Store had closed only minutes before my arrival, I cursed the trail gods.  Moments later I collapsed into a hotel room bathtub.  Hot water pouring over me, I clutched my inflamed knees.  How did it come to this?  What am I doing here?  What's the meaning of life?...

* * *

If you are new to this Calendar Year blog, you'll find some of these answers in my first post.  It involves a tangerine Subaru CrossTrek, quitting a job that I loved, and attempting to complete three thru-hikes in one year.  The blog reads like an unfolding story.  It's a story about pursuing your authentic self.  I love three things: wilderness, wildlife, and wanderlust.  Turns out that hiking satiates all of them at once.  Hiking also happens to be the cheapest way to have a long holiday (which is important when you're unemployed).  I believe in unabashedly pursuing what you love.  What follows is all about actualizing a passion.

* * *

"Remote for detachment, narrow for chosen company, winding for leisure, lonely for contemplation, it beckons not merely north and south, but upward to the body, mind, and soul of man." - Harold Allen

The Appalachian Trail was conceived in 1921 by Benton MacKaye.  He envisioned a footpath along the crest of the Appalachian Mountains stretching from Georgia to Maine.  In 1937, this visionary had his dream fulfilled.  And what a beautiful dream it was!  When I set foot atop Springer Mountain in Georgia to begin the final thru-hike of my Calendar Year, a plaque read, "A Footpath for Those who seek Fellowship with the Wilderness." Perfect, this is exactly what I want.

Let's rewind for a second.  Flying back from my Te Araroa trip was very relaxing.  Cruising at high altitudes in a tube in the sky is in itself, an oddity.  During my San Francisco to JFK leg I had a window seat.  I could see the Golden Gate Bridge, the Bay Bridge connecting to Oakland, I-80 stretching suburb to suburb to Sacramento.  I recalled in my post entitled The Two Towers that I could see this city light pollution from the Pacific Crest Trail.  Pretty soon I flew over the PCT and Lake Tahoe.  Face pressed against the window, I stared down at the snowy mountain ranges of Nevada, Utah, and Wyoming.  I could see the Wind River Range and the Great Basin, which is where the Continental Divide Trail traverses.  

At nightfall you begin to notice something disturbing with your 30,000ft perspective: urban sprawl.  The United States of America was nearly 100% wilderness 400 years ago.  Now we have roads everywhere.  Roads fragment ecosystems, as do dams, shopping malls, and suburbs.  We need some of these things in society, but perhaps we are a bit imbalanced with the natural world now.  Next time you fly at night, look at what has happened to America.  As I've said before, only 2.7% of the contiguous 48 States has wilderness classification.  More fracking, drilling, and development isn't making America great again.  It's actually destroying our natural world.  I try to picture myself as a red fox or a black bear when I look down at the impossible sea of lights from an airplane.  How would I get from one place to another safely?  Where would I find food in this cesspool of civilization?  Where is my place in this human-centric world?

On the Appalachian Trail, there is hope.  It traverses 14 states, 8 national forests, 2 National Parks, and 25 wilderness areas.  This trail is more than just a footpath to Maine — it's a wildlife refuge.  Before my plane landed, I wondered what the Appalachian Trail would look like on the ground.  From the air it looked like a bunch of lights.  Would I find fellowship with what's left of the East Coast's wild side?

The day before I started the Appalachian Trail I got to see the coast from above. Following a short intermission at home, my plane left Albany, New York (thanks for the ride to the airport, Nikki!) and flew down the Hudson River.  I could spot the 3,500-foot mountains of the Catskills, I flew over Harriman State Park and the Appalachian Trail, and then I saw the never ending metropolis sprawl.  Concrete, asphalt, suburbia.  No section of the Atlantic Coast, save the Outer Banks of North Carolina, appeared undeveloped from above.  Yikes.  Vote to protect our remaining wild spaces, everyone.  

Take action by signing a quick petition to save a newly-purchased piece of New York State as wilderness: www.bewildnewyork.org

If you know of another petition to save a wild space, contact me and I'll feature it in my next blog post.

Landing in Atlanta, I was fortunate enough to get an Olympic relay-style ride to the Amicalola Falls trailhead.  Mackenzie Smith took me through the endless Atlanta rush hour traffic to Rome, GA.  Then my old colleague Adrienne Amador took me for a quick resupply run and drove through the night to get me to my destination.  Without their help, this story wouldn't have started so perfectly...

Fastest Known Time (FKT) - Heather "Anish" Anderson set the fastest self-supported thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail last year with a time of 54 days 7 hours and 48 minutes.  Anish also holds the Pacific Crest Trail self-supported record.  She is my idol.  For clarity, it is important to note that Scott Jurek holds the supported AT record (just over 46 days).

Thru-hike - Hiking from Point A to Point B with a continuous, unbroken footpath.

Self-Supported - A thru-hike completed without external assistance.  No hitch-hiking to town for resupplies, no help from a support team along the way, and you must carry all of the gear that you'll need.  I won't even touch Trail Magic left for hikers along the trail.

Purist thru-hike - Hiking a trail in a continuous manner along the entirety of the official route.

White Blazing - The Appalachian Trail is marked with white paint blazes along the 2,189-mile journey.

I am attempting to set a new self-supported FKT on the Appalachian Trail this year.  I will be a meticulous purist, connecting my footsteps along the entire AT demarcated by white blazes.  Whenever I deviate from the trail to retrieve water or provisions, I will ensure that I reconnect my continuous footpath on the actual Appalachian Trail.  

My slight OCD will prove to be quite an asset in this ambitious endeavor!  Below you will find journal entries with each day's highlights.  I have been "calendaring" daily for over 12.5 years, which is a testament to willpower.  I will channel that level of OCD into my purist, self-supported thru-hike.  Here we go...

(Note: to save time, the rest of this post may contain grammatical errors and incomplete sentences.  These entries are fragments of a much larger story, which will be told at a later date.  I hope you can appreciate the shorthand, raw recording aspect of this endeavor.

Furthermore, I can substantiate these distances traveled with a private GPS tracking device.  Other AT 2016 hikers that I meet along the way will be able to add anecdotal tales of this honest FKT attempt.)

4/28 - A Forest Ranger unlocked the Amicalola Falls Visitor Center for me so I could sign the hiker register that morning.  My pack weighed in at 31 pounds (eek!).  The ranger took my picture beneath the Springer Approach Trail arch, and I was off!

8.8 miles later, I stood atop Springer Mountain.  I signed the summit register, at started the Appalachian Trail at precisely 11:11am on April 28, 2016.

 
 Departing from the AT's southern terminus.

My friend Jer from Te Araroa said, "It would be awesome if you made it to Neel's Gap in one day."  So that's what I set as my goal.  I went over Blood Mountain in the dark and arrived at the iconic boot-filled tree of Neel's Gap after 11pm.  31.7 miles complete.  

4/29 - Hiked over the Raven Cliff and Tray Mountain Wilderness areas.  Spotted Brasstown Bald (Georgia's highpoint) through the trees.  Camped just after Addis Gap on the side of the trail.  64.3 miles complete.

 
Flora of the AT in the Raven Cliff Wilderness

4/30 - Made it to North Carolina border in 2 days 1 hour and 1 minute.  Walked over Standing Indian Mountain.  Met Graham from Virginia Beach and hiked over Mt. Albert in the thunderstorm.  Made it to awesome Long Branch shelter soaked at 9pm. 102.5 miles complete.

 

5/1 - 11 hours and 30 minutes of hiking to NOC at 3mph.  Heroic but stupid.  (Starting to feel sore.) At Winding Stair Gap I took a wrong turn and missed the AT.  I turned around to retrace my steps, and then I walked the actual AT to maintain my purist white blaze thru-hike.  Amy at NOC made sure my pizza and burger were waiting.  Met Gritz and Fabulous and Rudolph. Gritz offered me a beer, but I had to refuse.  When I said that I walked here in less than 3.5 days he spun around and shouted, "Whhhhhaaaaattttt?!?!?  I've been out here for 3 weeks!"  Slept near the NOC.  137.1 miles complete.

 

5/2 - Hiked to Fontana Dam.  Cobwebs and morning birdsong. Met Ot-man and Rook and Fun Size.  Rough road walk.  Knees exploding.  Turned down 3 hitches. Wrong Way and Monte Cristo totally saved me from insanity when I discovered that the General Store just closed.  They were so friendly!  We talked about why there's a racial disparity in who participates in long-distance hiking.  We went out to dinner (with Phillip and Rocket Rick and Masa) and had a wonderful night together.  Sat in the shower.  Depressing.  I'm done. 164 miles complete.

 
With Wrong Way and Monte Cristo

5/3 - rested.  Dinner with Snow White, Don Juan, Rudolph, Fun Size.  Walked the road and 1.1 to Fontana Hilton shelter.  Met Sway and Breezy.  Monte Cristo and Wrong Way and Rook and Ot-man were there.  Knees inflamed. 165.6 miles complete. 

5/4 - Hiked into my 19th National Park!  Great Smoky Mountains NP.  Hiked up to the TN/NC border.  Nice views through the trees.  Summited my 9th high point, Tennessee's Clingman's Dome.  Got there in the dark.  Started to snow.  Camped in Mount Collins Shelter. 202.6 miles complete.

 

5/5 - hiked in the snow all day past Newfound Gap and all the way down to Davenport Gap Shelter.  The shelter before that was jam packed with people. I was voted off the island and hiked through the night to Davenport. 237 miles complete.

 

5/6 - Met Wallet from Virginia and Blue Sky from South Carolina.  Hiked to Standing Bear hostel.  Quaint place with an epic Resupply shed.  Hiked 30 more miles over Max's Patch to just outside of Hot Springs, NC. 270.5 miles complete.

5/7 - Hiked into hot springs and ate with Little Griz from Southern Illinois.  Walked by a pink trail magic sign.  Could not tempt myself so I didn't even go over to the hikertrash enjoying the free beer and food.  Firescald Bald and Tennessee city lights.  I made sure to take the white blaze trail instead of the bad weather blue blaze alternate.  Other night hikers!  Climbed over Big Butt Mt. at night.  303.8 miles complete.

 

5/8 - 42.6 miles hiked. Met Sparkles and had a wonderful conversation.  CT girl hiking with bf.  I don't have many long conversations out here!  Uncle Johnnies Hostel for a few minutes. Up 4 more miles at night.  346.4 miles complete.

5/9 - Hiked over Beauty Spot and Unaka and up the last 6,000 ft. Peak til NH, Roan mountain in the dark.  Hiked to Stan Murray Shelter.  382 miles complete.

5/10 - hiked 11.4 miles from 4am to 8:10am to get to Mountain Harbour B&B for the best breakfast on trail.  Met Grandma from Nashville TN and Wind Walker from Fairbanks AK who taught me stretches for the IT band.  Met Cinderella too who has a great trail name story along with a lady named Prince Charming. Met Rush who is going fast as well.  Really nice group of guys and gals today. Met Goner and Wooby and Walkman and Beast as well today.  Moreland Gap shelter 411.5 miles complete.

 
Along the Houston Ridge after Hump Mountain

5/11- walked pond mt wilderness. Met Diatom who I instantly recognized from the PCT!!!  I couldn't believe it!  We had such a great conversation at the Big Lake Youth Camp in Oregon last summer!  Wow!  Such great vibes from this guy!  Good luck Diatom! Met Shutterbug who is completing his Triple Crown.  Saw so many deer that night.  446.5 miles complete. 

5/12  - Woke up in a thunderstorm.  Shouldn't have cowboy camped.... hiked into Damascus and passed the passed out riff raff party animals.  Met Angie from Vasque who invited me to hang out with Sam Mix and the Osprey Team: Chris, Jason, Jen, Rosie, Otis, Andrew, Mackey and Tony.  Angie's friend Julie was there too.  They were all so wonderful and encouraging.  I had a nice evening and enjoyed the very beginning of the Trail Days festivities.  Met great people in town who hiked the trail last year like Fuzz Ball and Brightside and their two friends. Such nice people out here!!! 468.8 miles complete. 

5/13 - Lost mountain shelter lunch break.  Met John and John from NYC. Young John goes to the U of Richmond, what a great conversation!  Nice to see families out on the trail.  Buzzard Rocks was awesome.  Mount Rogers and Grayson Highlands ponies!  Feral ponies!!! So cool.  My knee started to act up again.  I've had bad pain in my left knee since the NOC and Fontana Village section.  506 miles complete.  

 

5/14 -  messaged my family saying my speed record attempt is over.  I moved like a slug.  My knee hurts so much.  At the Trempi Shelter I made the decision to push through the pain and get to the Partnership Shelter.  This shelter is famous for pizza and Chinese food deliveries.  As a self-supported hiker, I cannot indulge.  (I have to hike into all towns on my own to get the food I need.)  I meet Norway and Jesse's Girl and another section hiker.  532 miles complete.  

Hello from The Barn Restaurant off of I-81 in Virginia!  It is 5/15, and I'm 544 miles into my thru-hike.  It took me just under 17 days to get here.  (11:11am is my reference point.)

Things looked dire yesterday, but today is a new day!  The 25% marker of the Appalachian Trail is just ahead.  Sometimes I feel like I'm in a game of Mario Kart, always chasing the Anish ghost.  I'm traveling exactly 32 miles a day, while the record holder traveled just over 42 miles a day...  She's currently way out in front, but I'm happy.  The people along the AT have been so kind!  All of the other hikers have been radiating positivity out here, and I try to radiate that energy back.  

I try to be an exceptional steward of the land while walking everyday.  I pick up micro-trash accidentally discarded along the trail, I help brush in the switchbacks that people cut, and I practice Leave No Trace principles while recreating.  

The Appalachian Trail is beautiful.  It's such a great way to see and experience America.  Almost like a time warp, you can envision yourself in colonial times as you navigate the wonderful wilderness areas and National Forests along the way.  

More trail updates to come!  I'm going to try to pick up the pace soon.  Hopefully my knee is on the mend...  No matter what life throws at you, remember to stay wild.  


Following the White Blazes to Katahdin!

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Numbers

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

Numbers never lie.  I have compiled all of the interesting statistics that I could think of regarding my thru-hike.  These are objective facts based on my 2015 SOBO journey.  Use this information at your own risk, and by that I mean get outside into a park near you pronto!
 
2,650.1 - Total distance in miles of the Pacific Crest Trail according to the Halfmile maps. (Slightly longer than 101 marathons, and you all remember your first marathon!...)

488,411 - Total PCT vertical gain in feet while trekking those 101 marathons southbound to Mexico.  (Equivalent to nearly 17 ascents of Mt. Everest if starting from sea level.) 
This number is also from the Halfmile maps. https://www.pctmap.net/2014/03/elevation-gain-on-the-pacific-crest-trail/

I only saw 2 PCT trail markers during the first 60 miles of hiking. 

122 - Number of days that it took me to hike from monument to monument, Canada to Mexico. (June 27 - October 26, just under 4 months!  The average PCT thru-hike lasts 5 months.)

21.72 - Average number of miles hiked per day including time spent in town.  Honest math. 

4,003 - Average vertical ascent in feet per day.  That's a lot of climbing! 

3 - Pairs of Vasques boots used on the entire Pacific Crest Trail.  I also used 6 pairs of socks.

Two-thirds of my hiking footwear. 

5 - Number of trail names that I gave to other PCT hikers.  I was hoping to report back with 6 but "Talent Boy" didn't want to keep his name. 

6 - Age of the youngest person to complete the PCT, "Buddy."

76 - Age of the oldest person who I hiked with this year.  Hiking is a great lifetime sport! 

27 - Number of towns that I visited in order to resupply myself with provisions.

101.1 - Miles from Barrel Spring to the Mexican border.  This would be the longest natural-source waterless stretch for southbounders on the Pacific Crest Trail.  This is one of the main reasons why going northbound is so popular — more streams are running from snowmelt in the early Spring.  Don't worry, there are spigots and water caches along the way, but this trail would be extremely difficult without these luxuries.  Another daunting natural waterless stretch for southbounders was from Spanish Needle Creek to Robin Bird Spring, 67.9 miles.  Yes, Joshua Tree Spring is in-between, but that water is laced with uranium.  These desert distances make Oregon's 33.1-mile stretch between Thielsen Creek and Lightning Spring seem easy!  I also once thought Washington's 12-mile dry stretch around Grizzley Peak was tough!  Look how far I've come!  Rule of thumb: Fill up when water is available.  Hiking southbound was nice because by the time I got to the long waterless stretches down south I was in the best shape of my life. 

This water cache in the San Felipe Hills helps everyone out!  Thank you Trail Angels!

54 - Longest hiking distance in miles that I hiked in one day.  This stretch was from a site just south of Tehachapi Pass to Pine Canyon Road over the L.A. Aqueduct with the Wrong Way Gang.  This was one of my two double marathon days. 

14,505 - Highest elevation in feet reached on this trip.  This was an 16-mile detour to climb Mt. Whitney, California's highest peak.  The highest point on the actual PCT is Forester Pass at 13,200ft. 

140 - Lowest elevation in feet reached on this trip.  This was in Washington State near the Columbia River. 

Not many people celebrate at the PCT low point.  Here it is!

2 - Number of "zeros" that I took while hiking the PCT.  

3,500 - Cost in USD of my thru-hike, not including the plane tickets.  The average thru-hike costs between 4k-6k.  I would attribute my below average total to three things: the low number of zeros that I took, my completion speed, and having already owned hiking equipment.  New gear along the trail, resupplies, and town expenditures add up!  The secret to saving money... Don't spend the night in a town.  You already have your sleeping bag, and outside is free.  An overnight in town inevitably results in additional restaurant bills. Save some cash and donate to the lovely Trail Angels along the way instead!  

8 - Weight loss in pounds after completing the PCT. 

23 - Number of bodies of water that I swam in along the PCT.  This includes the three deepest lakes in the United States: Crater Lake, Lake Tahoe, and Lake Chelan.  I didn't count anything less than full submersion as a legit swim. 

Middle Rosary Lake, Oregon

5 - Number of black bears that I saw on the entire thru-hike.  All of the Bears ran away from me as fast as possible once they saw me.  There is no need to view this beautiful creature as an antagonist.  Bears are awesome, and I'm so happy that I saw them.

48 - Number of Wilderness areas along the PCT.  These places... Wow!

7 - Number of National Parks along the PCT.  Have you been to any of them?

2.7 - Remaining percentage of the continental U.S. protected as wilderness.  Hopefully you agree that this is a shockingly low percentage, considering that this country was nearly 100% wild a short time ago. Check www.wilderness.net 

20 - Degrees Fahrenheit that my down sleeping bag was rated for.  I was too warm most nights, but glad that I had it during the desert where I experienced the coldest temperatures.  I know, right?! "Don't you know the desert is hot?" said everyone. 

9 - Instances of precipitation while walking across Washington, Oregon, and California combined!  I imagine that total rainfall would be less than 3 days out of 122 days of thru-hiking.  I was told that this was the fourth terrible drought year in a row.  I'd expect more rain next time, especially if I went NOBO (it rains a lot in the Cascades come September).

90 - Number of nights spent cowboy camping under the stars. (The other nights: 1 in a hammock, 2 in tepees, 7 in a tent, 22 days under a roof!)

Cowboy camp set-up on Methow Pass in rugged Northern Washington.

At the OR/CA border. 

1,052.1 - Number of miles hiked without carrying a tent.  I shipped it from Cascade Locks, OR, to Echo Lake, CA to save on weight.  This was very foolish, but I just assumed it would never rain!  This means I hiked 40% of the PCT without a precipitation backup plan.  I was rained on twice during that tentless stretch — including the first night without my tent!

29 - Days that I hiked solo on the PCT.  People always ask me, "Were you alone most of the time?"  Nope, I hiked with others 76% of the time, which is probably a very high statistic for a southbound thru-hiker!  I also saw at least one other human being every single day during this thru-hike...  Maybe the trail isn't as Wild as you would hope?

56 - The highest number of northbound hikers who passed me in one day.  Everyone always wants to know where the dreaded NOBO herd is.  I encountered it on August 10th just south of Crater Lake. I met my first NOBO July 9th ("Magic," a super nice guy) in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.  I was shocked to meet the last alleged NOBO thru-hiker on Septwmber 9th in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. I hope he makes it!  My friend Half Jesus is still out there on his SOBO journey.  Just like what Billy Goat says, "The last one to the border wins!  If you go fast, you get to the monument and say, 'Well I guess I'll go home now...'  People forget why they left their job to be out here in the first place!"

1,998 - Number of miles that I carried my bear canister... From the Canadian border to Walker Pass!  You need this piece of equipment in the High Sierra. 

0 - The number of times I went to dig a 6-8 inch cathole and accidentally dug up NOBO poop.  Phew!

10 - The number of Keystone Lights I consumed before throwing in the towel during the 24-24-24 Challenge.  Groucho was able to actually complete this mythical hiker quest.  I am still amazed. 

Groucho rocking the 12-packs in each hand. 

If you liked this Numbers post, you'll tolerate this Pacific Crest Trail Finale video... Look how far my beard has come! http://youtu.be/VUmAUZ2sWI8
Enjoy the monument celebration at the end :)

I'll admit that I got lucky with an unseasonably warm June, I got lucky with weather, and I was lucky to avoid most forest fire issues.  Next year might be totally different, so please go forth prepared.  Please follow all Leave No Trace ethics on your future hike, no matter the distance.  Let's do our part to keep our trails awesome!

- Future Dad

Saturday, August 1, 2015

For Purple Mountain Majesties

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

The trail will challenge you emotionally, physically, and mentally during your thru-hike.  I just happened to ride that triad of roller coasters within a 24-hour time span.

I set out from White Pass at 6pm alone.  This was strange.  Thus far I had been hiking with Half Jesus and Wildfire throughout the state of Washington, but I had different ambitions than my hiking comrades in this upcoming section — I wanted to do a high traverse in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. 

Ever since we met a northbounder named Impala (2nd to finish the Pacific Crest Trail northbound this year) in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, we heard from every single northbound hiker how amazing the Goat Rocks were.  Most people remarked how they wished they had spent more time in that region.  Hailing from New York State, I couldn't imagine another time in the near future that I would find myself back here, so I decided to venture out by myself to spend more quality time with the wilderness. 

The initial ascent out of a resupply town is always difficult.  You carry large amounts of food, large amounts of water, and therefore your pack weight is substantial.  I was carrying a 40lb. pack. With Cascade Locks, OR over 150 miles away, I wanted to ensure that I had enough food for the journey.  

Thousands of vertical feet and many miles later, I made it to Shoe Lake Basin and the top of the ridge.  Even though my shoulders ached under the weight of my pack, the idea of witnessing my first sunset behind Mount Rainier propelled me onward.  

When I set my pack down, I was in awe. The clouds were perfect, and the sun was still above the horizon... This would be one of the greatest sunsets of my life. 

Goat Rocks in the distance.  Excited for the sunset!

The inspirational sunset behind Mount Rainier. 

When it happened I was invigorated!  I felt like John Muir, Bob Marshall, or Edward Abbey would have agreed that this was an exceptional sunset from an extraordinary location.  I sat there for an hour as the sky turned into a Crayola crayon canvas.  Every color was on display.  The mountains actually turned purple in the foreground.  "For purple mountain majesties!" I sang aloud. I felt alive, and I was very happy that I embarked out on this section in time to witness my greatest moment on trail.  

The sunset was so grand that I wondered, "If I night hike, perhaps I can reach the Goat Rocks in time for an epic sunrise?"  I pushed through the dark forest and donned my trusty headlamp.  I was intimidated at first, but no animal wants to mess with a loud human in the dark, so I pushed onward with confidence.  Something to think about, because someone will eventually ask thru-hikers about this: over 30,000 people have died in car accidents each year in the United States since 1945.  Only a couple of bear attacks happen every year.  You can pull this stuff up on Wikipedia if you'd like.  I think I'll take my chances in places like Goat Rocks Wilderness.  No I'm not afraid of bears or mountain lions... I'm afraid of sharing the road with people in steel machines that are going 65+ mph!

Mount Rainier and alpine flora in the safe Goat Rocks Wilderness!

The next morning I made it to the highly-anticipated Knife's Edge of the Pacific Crest Trail in Goat Rocks.  This is when I began experiencing euphoria...

A happy Tyler!

Don't drop off this knife edge!

Mount Saint Helens in the distance... I wonder where the top half of the mountain went?...

On top of Old Snowy - the beginning of my off-trail traverse. 

When I climbed Old Snowy, I felt like I had made it to heaven.  I saw herds of elk and mountain goats in the valleys below, I saw Mount Saint Helens, Mount Rainier, Mount Adams... They were all there!  I could even spy the Alpine Lakes Wilderness mountains and Glacier Peak in the north.  I felt so accomplished walking all this way in just a few weeks.  I remembered looking out of that airplane window and seeing all of these sentinels below... Now I was walking beyond them!

I felt a rush of emotion.  I cried, and that's OK because Jim Valvano said it was one of the three things you should do everyday — "have your emotions moved to tears."   I couldn't  believe that this was my life and my journey.  I couldn't believe how utterly gorgeous the wilderness was.  All at once I missed my family and my friends.  I wish they could have been up on Old Snowy with me.  Unbridled happiness and adrenaline pumped through me.  That's when I remembered Impala's suggestion from two weeks ago... "Stay high." 

I assumed he meant the ridgeline, and when I saw Ives Peak in the distance I knew that I had to give it a shot. I would summit Ives and contour to a ridge that met up with the PCT at Cispus Pass.  Easy right?  I was so incredibly wrong, but my emotional high had me pressing along the talus fields. 

It happened rather quickly.  It started with a misstep, led to a few cuts, and resulted in a rockslide.  I heard people on the PCT below shouting, "Rock fall!"  I jumped towards larger rocks and escaped with only a few small scars that still haven't faded.  The rock tumbled forever, but luckily not anywhere near the trail below.  I turned around. I was scared.

I fully intended to return to the trail down the Old Snowy alternate.  When I climbed back up to the summit of Old Snowy I was shocked to be confronted by a beautiful girl hiking in a sports bra and her parents.  "Where yah heading?!" the older, yet spry man asked.  "Well, I was thinking about traversing to Ives Peak and beyond before eventually returning to the PCT, but I just started a rock fall and spooked myself out."  The older man with his wry wit responded, "You're heading the wrong way if you want to summit Ives.  Just stay on the very top of the ridge and negotiate the cliffs and glaciers.  I did it when I was younger."  Now the pressure was on, and Future Dad wasn't going to back out now, especially with a cute girl nearby.  "Alright, I'll try it again!" I proclaimed. 

After a nice conversation, I hiked through stuff like this...

Mount Adams through a hidden arch!  Naturally, I had to walk through it. 

Just about to climb off this glacier with my 40lb. pack and go up some Class 4 rocks to get up Ives Peak.  Sorry Mom!!!

Looking back at my traverse - the greatest hiking experience of my life!

Finally atop Ives, I was pumped.  Super pumped.  Emotionally, I was feeling excellent.  But on the descent something happened.  It started with a few pebbles getting into my boots.  They were in there hours ago, but due to my adrenaline rush and the inherent danger in an exposed hike like this I hardly noticed them.  During the descent my rush was fading, and the pain was mounting.  Every scree field on the way down seemed to pound more and more pebbles into the balls of my feet.  I emptied my ankle-high boots a few times, but to no avail.  The rocks found a way in.  

After a few hours I finally made it back to the actual Pacific Crest Trail, but something was horribly wrong.  I felt physically defeated for the first time on trail.  I walked all the way from Canada to Goat Rocks in southern Washington with no problems... Until that descent. 

I took off my boots after Cispus Pass.  That's when I noticed the blood.  My socks helped to stop the bleeding, but my toes were still oozing.  Yes, it was gross. 

Upset Tyler only hours after summiting Old Snowy.  I took this photo intentionally - to remind myself that the PCT isn't all sunshine and roses.  Well, actually, there is a lot of sunshine.  It never rains out here.

After an attempt to wrap my feet with tape and moleskin, I could only move 2 more miles that day.  I collapsed on trail and rolled off it to a small campsite with one spot left.  It was only 5pm, my earliest campsite destination so far, but I needed to stop.  Physically I could not move on.  The other two spots were occupied by Lost and Found & All Day Long.  We had our typical "Northbounder meets Southbounder" conversation. "Have you seen Tin Man, Magic, Impala, Bi-Polar, Kiester?" they inquired.  Some I had, and some I had not.  "What was your favorite part of the trail?" I asked robotically.  I quickly added, "Mine was nearly today until I hurt my feet." It was All Day Long who told me then, "The trail will challenge you emotionally, physically, and mentally during your thru-hike."  He also added, "What you need is Leuko tape, that stuff is the best when it comes to fixing blisters and caring for your feet."  I didn't have Leuko tape.  I didn't even have Half Jesus or Wildfire with me.  I was in a bad place...  

The mental part came that next morning.  My two campsite friends left by 6am.  I was afraid to look at my feet.  They throbbed.  I knew I wouldn't be able to put my boots on.  I actually felt defeated. I thought, "Wow, maybe I can't do this.  Maybe I won't make it to Mexico..."  Nearly half of all thru-hikers who set out on this cross-country 2,650-mile quest never complete their journey.  Injury plays a heavy factor.  

I just laid in my sleeping bag.  7am. 8am. 9am.  The hours went by.  That's when I saw him.  Bobbing along the trail with a great white beard was a man that All Day Long referred to last night.  With the warmest of tones the man said, "Oh, hello down there!"  "Are you 'Bi-Polar?'" I asked.  "Yup, that's me!"  Bi-Polar has an excellent reputation  on trail.  Everyone loves him.  Hiking legends are praised along the trail, and word spreads about the not-so-friendly hikers too — sometimes hundreds of trail miles in both directions. 

In addition to becoming a legendary character during this 2015 season, Bi-Polar apparently has a controversial blog.  Find it if you can!  

Even though he was pressing hard for Canada, Bi-Polar was more than generous with his time. We talked for an hour!  We connected over other long-distance hiking trails, like the Ice Age Trail in Wisconsin.  We talked about the negative consequences of hydrofracking.  We talked about the fact that only 2.7% of the Lower 48 States is classified as wilderness.  In the end, I saw him as a genuine man with a gentle soul.  Unprompted, Bi-Polar asked how I was feeling.  I told him about the sunset over Rainier, the herds of elk, the Knife's Edge, Old Snowy, the rock fall, the spry older man, my traverse, and the condition of my feet.  

"You know, what you need Future Dad is some Leuko tape... And it just so happens that I have some for you.  My feet don't blister anymore.  You can have it."

It was as if a heavenly angel had descended upon my campsite. Just as quickly as he dispensed his unexpected trail magic, Bi-Polar was gone.  

I finally removed my legs from my bag and applied the Leuko tape.  I slipped into my hiking boots.  It felt like stepping into comfy slippers on Christmas Day.  That's when Wildfire wheeled around the corner, shocked to see me so soon.  My reaction upon her timely arrival was joyous!  Things came together perfectly...  Almost too perfectly.  

Wildfire and I hiked south.  We hiked with gusto.  We walked past Mount Adams, spent time in rural Trout Lake, encountered the most magnificent Trail Angels near Panther Creek Campground, and crossed Bridge of the Gods into Oregon together, with Half Jesus only a few hours behind!  

The reflection of Mount Adams in the wake of my emotional highs and physical/mental lows.  What a great swim!

If you'd like to see what the PCT in Washington State looks like, check out my original video via this link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eTKVK7uib_A&feature=youtu.be

I'm in Oregon now, pushing south.  Walking through Washington took me just under a month.  515 miles complete! Over 2,000 daunting miles to go!  Ahead of me lies more hardship, more sunsets, more magic.  The author Donald Miller wrote that, "The mountains themselves call us into greater stories."  I can only hope that more of these future mountains are purple.







Friday, July 17, 2015

Trail Magic on the PCT

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

It hit me when Paul, Bridget, and Jamie waved goodbye and drove downhill from Hart's Pass... I was on my own.  Without cellular service in extreme northern Washington, there was no turning back.  Mexico was approximately 2,627 miles south of my current location, but you can only think about the PCT in sections.  The 2,650-mile journey is more or less a long series of 5-day backpacking trips.  Stehekin was slated as my next resupply point, so that became my focus. 

Before Paul left he graciously gave me his spare sunglasses.  I lost my pair within 5 minutes of embarking on our journey to the border, and we never found them on the return trip.  The clouds were threatening, so I began to set up my tarp tent (thank you Seth Jones) for the first time.  After a short conversation with some locals on a day hike, I sat down to rest my tired legs which had gone 66 miles in 3 days. *CRUNCH!*  Sorry about that Paul, I sat on your glasses only minutes after your departure.  That's when it started to rain...

A bit of much-needed rainy weather in a burned area south of Harts Pass

After a few solo miles the next morning I felt that I was in my element again.  I saw a grouse up close, (Paul, those four *thud, thud, thud, thud* sounds are grouse calls - you were right) which was exciting.  Shortly afterwards I picked up a dropped piece of hiking equipment, a wool buff, (I hadn't forgotten the pain of losing my sunglasses) in hopes of making someone's day down the road. When the weather broke I was high up on a ridgeline.  What beauty!  What splendor!  Mountains, as far as the eye can see, were shooting up into the sky.  It's exciting to see the Pacific Crest Trail ahead of you flying over exposed passes and around rocky crags.  Here's what I'm talking about...

The PCT winds its way down into Glacier Pass below Azurite Peak. 

My campsite on Methow Pass below Tower Peak. 

The next day was spectacular.  I contoured around the mountains until hitting Cutthroat Pass.  That's when the trail plunges down to Rainy Pass and Route 20, a roadway that I took only 5 days earlier to get to the starting point. 

Pristine valleys, the untrammeled wild!

My solo journey on the PCT wasn't permanent. During a water filtration break, a familiar face rounded the corner. His name was Matt and I met him briefly when I was hiking with Paul, Bridget, and Jamie.  

Matt was awesome from the beginning.  Our hiking friendship solidified when I asked him if he dropped his wool buff.  Indeed he did!  Matt told me how he experienced "trail magic" two years ago during his first attempt of the Pacific Crest Trail.  A popular trail angel, (someone who assists thru-hikers out of the goodness of their heart) named "Meander" resupplied Matt with fuel and snacks on the same sterch of trail that we were hiking at that moment.  Only a few miles later, Matt found pair of sunglasses in the bushes.  When no person claimed them after a day of asking fellow hikers, Matt reciprocated the trail magic experience.  

We entered North Cascades National Park and took another water break together.  While filtering we met our newest friend Brandon who exclaimed, "I've got some extra whiskey if you guys want some tonight."  Brandon was immediately welcomed into our growing hiking crew.  Together the three of us would make our way to the magical town of Stehekin.  I quickly realized that wasn't feeling so alone any more. 

Heading into North Cascades NP!

I learned a main credo of the PCT during this stretch: the trail provides!