Simply Walking Into Mordor: Part 2

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes 

I'm currently sitting in an outhouse along the Whanganui River section of Te Araroa.  The plain exterior of the latrine gave me little hope, but as it turns out this is a remarkably good place to think and reflect.  While basking in solitude, I'm reminded that I left Part 2 of my Tongariro Crossing hike hanging.  6 days into a 7-day paddle, I thought now would be the best time to retell my favorite day of tramping....

....but first we really need to unpack what is happening in this outhouse.  Shuttering as I meekly creaked the door open, I was taken aback by the sleek interior.  The bland wood tones revealed no sign of wear, nor any noticeable trace of human defilement.

"Is this a 10/10 outhouse with regards to cleanliness?" I asked myself.  Yes, yes it is true.  Unexpected and unprecedented!

This Whanganui River outhouse now stands an exemplar, a beacon of hope for all other outhouses to emulate.  Jer and I give you the official Outhouse Rankings Criterion:

● Cleanliness (0-10)
● Smell / Ventilation (0-10)
● Spiders / Insects (0-10)
● Lighting, Locking Mechanism, & General Aesthetics (0-10)
● The Long Drop (0-10)

Thanks for reading that, and now I digress...

I was simultaneously nervous and excited.  Jer, Dan, and I left the Mangatepopo Hut at precisely 5:30pm armed with one personal locator beacon, one bottle of water, our cameras, and three headlamps.  I remember using the Mangatepopo outhouse before I left.  It was just OK.  We wanted to travel light so that we could return to our packs as quickly as possible.  Our friends were pushing onward another 9km, so we suspected that we wouldn't catch up with them until midnight.

My nervous energy dissipated as we began our 5km uphill jog towards the base of Mount Ngauruhoe.  The conversations between the three of us certainly seemed to shorten the distance.  Jer and Dan are two of the nicest Americans I could have hoped to meet on trail.  Loveable, humble, tall, tanning, handsome.  These boys make me laugh, and more importantly, they make me think.  Surround yourself with exceptional people, and you yourself will improve.

Jer is a legend.  Jer competes in triathlons.  Jer already completed a pure thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.  Jer was born in Hawaii.  I respect Jer.  Jer has a blog.  You will enjoy his blog immensely.  Allow me to direct you to the promised land.  Jer and Anna actually update their blog regularly.    Only continue reading mine to hear more about Dan...

Dan is a heroic firefighter (Dan, you are my hero, and this is my blog).  Dan is a man of science.  Dan loves the great American band Guster.  Dan has many nicknames, including Downstream Dan, Graceful Dan, No Fun Dan, Dislodge Dan, and Midnight Eggs Dan.  I respect Dan.

Man-crushes aside, the slopes of this volcano are intimidating.  Ngauruhoe appears to have a sustained 40 degree pitch for 600 vertical meters in every approach to the summit crater.  Jer and Dan will disarm you with their charming smiles, just to toss in one more man-crush sentiment.

At 6:18pm we stand in awe at the red and black mass of Mount Doom.  Now at its base, we evaluate our approach.  An interpretive sign shows us where the 1975 lava flow happened.  That's not too long ago in geological time...  We are about to climb an active volcano.

Jer, Dan, and I begin the ascent.  It's easy for the first 10 minutes.  Then we hit the scree field.  Loose lava rock shifts and manipulates our boots into awkward positions as we ascend.  It's a "choose your own adventure" up there.  Previous trampers, all seeking the easiest/safest path upwards, have made footpaths in every direction.  Every step leaves a footprint, and our arduous climb was only beginning.

"Let's ask these two people descending which way they recommend," I said to Jer and Dan.  As the two hikers retreated it didn't look like they had a successful go at summiting.  They carried heavy demeanors, heavier packs, and one of them had a freshly bloodied leg.  Unfortunately they only made it a hundred meters uphill before being forced back by the difficulty.  I began to wonder if Ngauruhoe's glamorized reputation as Mount Doom encouraged hoards of ill-equipped trampers to attempt a summit approach.  Were the three of us sucked into the same trap?

The struggle was real.  Three fit men in the prime of their lives were moving one step forwards, two steps back.  Ngauruhoe's scree was unforgiving.  I dislodged one rock which tumbled past my friends and went all the way to the base of the mountain.  Tongariro Crossing, which seemed high as we hiked over it in the afternoon, already looked impossibly far down from our elevated vantage point.

Hope faded as we made tortoise-like progress.  The sun was setting.  It was getting colder, and none of us brought warm layers...

Just then a spry man came darting down the scree as a downhill skier carves through fresh powder.

"Hey!" I cried out to him.  We were at our vertical limit. "Is there another approach that you would recommend?  We are having some trouble here."

"Sure," the tramper offered, "aim for that rock spine off to the left."

Any alternative sounded better than our current route.  The three of us scurried along the volcanic rock and completed the traverse to the rock spine.  Our spirits lifted immediately.  Solid ground!  Handholds!  More time to think of our favorite LOTR quotes!  I even found a discarded bottle with water in it.  (We carried it out... And drank all of the water.)  The Leave No Trace battle against the Leave Trace supporters is unending.

As we crested the summit crater, we noticed thermal vents giving off sulfuric steam.  Elation!  We made it!  Our enthusiasm was palpable.  The three of us released barbaric shouts into the atmosphere.  Jer stood in the hot gaseous vents.  Dan noticed Ruapehu in the distance.  We ran along the summit ridge as a team.  We were so pumped.

That's when we noticed the snowfield.  "Should we make snow angels?" Jer asked rhetorically.  Of course we would make snow angels.  How many times in your life will you be able to make snow angels on top of Mount Doom?!?!

Euphoria.  That's what it was.  Mount Taranaki's conical peak jutted up above the clouds far in the western sky.  Ruapehu's snow-crested ridge glistened in the waning sunlight.  The volcanic fields around Tongariro National Park made us feel like we were on Mars with Matt Damon.  Climbing up to the actual crater of Ngauruhoe's peak truly felt like being on top of Middle Earth. 

The descent made me think of Kate and Bekah.  I thought of Kate because she is an avid skier, and we were glissading down the scree field like Olympians carving fresh powder.  Jer entered Beast Mode and finished his rapid descent in 20 minutes!  I thought of Bekah because only hours earlier we promised to do Mount Doom together someday.  Now I know the correct approach for our next Mount Doom attempt.  Punctuated with an epic full moonrise over this volcanic kingdom, it was time to go back to our trail families. 

Reyne, Sebastien, Kate, Rebekah... We all make up "The Cute Boys Club" (shout out to my friend Zack back in Rochester).  That's our trail family name.  Jer and Dan have been traveling with "Couples Retreat" along with Anna, Alex, and Alex. 

As we scampered downhill, Mount Doom's shadow extended over Tongariro Crossing.  The shadow was nearly 10km long.  Our bedraggled bunch returned to the Mangatepopo Hut at 9:30pm, exactly 4 hours after our departure.  Add this trip to your bucket list, but try to go during the shoulder season.  We had Mount Doom to ourselves at the summit, and I'd want you to have the same magical experience.  I'm glad that I utilized the Awesome Principle and made an everlasting memory with Jer and Midnight Eggs Dan. 

As the aphorism states, a rising tide lifts all ships.  You'll learn in the next blog how a rising Whanganui River sinks all ships...

That's all from the Hipango Park outhouse!  I cannot believe that there are no spiders in here.

Simply Walking Into Mordor: Part 1

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

"Respect the mountain, and it will respect you."  Hut Master John was asking us to tread both thoughtfully and carefully.  We would be entering sacred Māori territory, where respect is paramount.

Sitting at Mangatepopo Hut at 5pm, our day was allegedly over.  We had already completed the popular Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of New Zealand's nine "Great Walks."  This is a *must do* if you ever find yourself on the North Island.  The traverse is about 17.5km long, and it'll be a walk to remember. 

Day complete!  We were up at 5:30am to cover the 1,100 meters of ascent.  We had already stowed our discount Halloween costumes away. (I dressed up as a sexy nurse most of the day.  Reyne was in a skimpy Superman suit, Bekah was a boisterous Batman, Kate was a beautiful ballerina, Sebastien was an elderly woman, and newcomer Dan wore his standard clothes.  Dan now goes by, "No Fun Dan.")  We arrived at the backcountry hut, consumed our instant noodles, and napped.

What more could be done on this day of tramping?  I was already looking forward to a game of Euchre at our campsite.  This game, as it turns out, wasn't in the cards tonight.  Did you see what I did there?  I italicized the idiom.

From 2001-2003, our world was rocked by the cinematic-adaptation of New Zealand's sensational history.  In The Lord of the Rings, we follow Frodo Baggins and Samwise Gamgee as they attempt to destroy the One Ring in the very fires of Mordor.  Some people walk across New Zealand having never watched the trilogy.  This is fine, especially if you celebrate the 4th of July having never seen Independence Day starring none other than America's heartthrob, Jeff Goldblum.

It just so happens that the infamous "Mount Doom" from The Lord of the Rings is a towering 600 meters above and adjacent to the Tongariro Crossing trail.  Mount Ngauruhoe was used as director Peter Jackson's dramatic Mordor setting.  Tourists flock to Tongariro to see and sometimes to take a crack at summiting this iconic volcano.

At approximately 2pm, I strolled right by the trailhead of Ngauruhoe.  "Beware of Falling Rocks!" a sign warned.  "Beware of Pyroclastic Flow!" an interpretive sign signaled.  "If you hear rumbling, run!" instructed a temporary sign in section of recently destroyed trail.

These geological happenings seemed more sensational than realistic.  "Maybe Tyler is exaggerating his own tale just to keep me reading?" asks the reader.  "Perhaps these signs are posted for litigious reasons?" questions another.  "I think that the sexy nurse costume was a little over the top," complains a third. 

These fictious people may have a point.  Thank you blog readers for tolerating my writing style.  I think you are beautiful.  I hope brutal honesty is what you look forward to.  I feel very grateful to be out here right now, and I'm thinking of you all as winter's grip tightens back home in the Northern Hemisphere.  Will someone please throw a snowball or shovel an ice rink for me?  Sometimes I miss home while in New Zealand, the people... The places.  I love you guys.

On the ascent we walked by an impact crater caused by a 2012 side vent eruption.  Ngauruhoe itself last spewed lava in 1975.  As we climbed we saw thermal vents spewing sulfuric gases.  We heard the mountain rumbling from within.  Hyperbole intended, this blog post is about my best day on Te Araroa.  What a loquacious introduction!  Allow me to whisk you away into the Danger Zone...

At 5:30am I heard No Fun Dan bellow my name.  Sleep was hard to come by that night as the mosquitos were out in full force.  Waking up early was our only solution to our sun problem.  The ozone over New Zealand is thin.  Sun exposure has resulted in blistered hands, calves, and noses.  We hoped to get most of the tough climbing done before the summer heat escalated.

As the trail exited the bush and entered the alpine scrub, we began to experience the sights, sounds, and smells of geothermal activity.  I made a 12-egg dish with curry powder at our last town stop, which put me at the brunt of a few jokes as we walked by sulfuric vents.  Even the streams smelled pungent.  Steam rose from curious pockets around the mountain.  It was like Yellowstone.

Higher we climbed until reaching the recently abandoned Ketetahi Hut.  Only a few years ago, boulders were jettisoned from the Te Mari vent a few kilometers away.  One landed on the hut's roof.  Another left a large impact crater in the hut's front yard.  "This is what killed the dinosaurs," I jested.  No one laughed.  Too soon?

While having our early morning snack, we spotted our new best friends in the alpine shrubs below.  Two married couples, Americans Jer & Anna and Aussies Alex & Alex, (we call this trail family, "Couples Retreat") made their way uphill.  After some shouting back and forth, we surrendered to the pull of hiking and left before they arrived. 

Topping out at 1,750 meters, we understand why Tongariro is labeled a "Great Walk": the flat Central Crater contrasts with the towering peaks around it, Blue Lake glistens and blinds us, stark volcanic landscspe abounds, all while Mount Doom looms in the background.

Also, you begin to see hoards of people.

New Zealand's Great Walks are like American National Parks.  The main  attractions are manicured.  The infrastructure in New Zealand doesn't seem to impede upon the natural beauty, but surely more latrines and bigger carparks are needed.  The double edge sword of conservation... If you build it, they will come.  Once they come you hope they develop a visceral connection with the natural world, causing these visitors vote for conservation efforts that appear on the next ballot.  Rare alpine plants are going to get stepped on, wildlife is disturbed, but most of the time our temporary excursion into untrammeled lands is beneficial.  Inviting others to experience the trials of outdoor recreation is a necessary balancing act.  (This works as long as the Leave No Trace participants outnumber the Leave Trace participants.)

As the endless sea of northbound dayhikers approached us at Blue Lake, we changed our attire.

A week earlier Kate and Bekah encouraged us to purchase old Halloween costumes for fun.  They figured that we would maximize exposure during Tongariro Crossing due to the hike's popularity.  I figured that I could maximize exposure by choosing an ill-fitting nurse garment.  We were all correct.  Kate and Rebekah inject a tremendous amount of fun into the group.  Grabbing costumes was such a good idea.  We also donned them at our 1,000km marker a week prior to get more use out of them.  I think of Kate and Bekah as best friends.  I feel like we feed of each other's energy, and these Women in the Wild are quick to find humor in all situations.

It was memorable to trek in costume.  It was also memorable because the Tongariro Crossing views were so different to anything I've ever witnessed in my life.  Magical!  Unreal!  The Emerald Lakes were reflecting aquamarine colors, smoke billowed from underground, and the occasional rumble kept everyone on their toes. 

Scrambling up to Red Crater, we doffed our superfluous textiles and resumed the hike in standard clothes.  We ran up to Mount Tongariro to catch a view of snowy Mount Ruapehu, tallest mountain in the North Island.  We slowly made our way down to the South Crater, reconvened with the Couples Retreat, and happily ambled into Mangatepopo Hut.  This was already my favorite day of hiking on Te Araroa.  It felt great to be among friends, while also remaining far, far away from orks, ring wraiths, and the evil creatures of Middle Earth.

                               * * *

I'm sitting next to Jer on the deck of the hut at 5:01pm, when he suddenly turns to me and says, "So you want to give this a shot?"

"What?  Mount Doom?!" I sputtered incredulously.  The base of Ngauruhoe was 5km and hundreds of vertical meters in the opposite direction of our intended campsite.  From our bench, we were provided with a daunting view of the enormous volcano.

"Yeah, you know, I'm just thinking about cameling up with some water, taking my headlamp, and going for it.  You down?..."

I actually buried my face in my palms for a few seconds.  Others on the deck began to realize that Jer was serious. 

"...You know, travel light," Jer continued, "slack pack it, stash most of our stuff here at the hut, meet up with the gang around midnight 9km down the trail."

I actually busted out the Awesome Principle guys.  I ran through two scenarios in my head.  Then I vocalized the two fictional scenarios for everyone to hear.  I forced myself to choose the more awesome scenario.  "I'm in."

"Me too," chimed No Fun Dan, who was suddenly becoming Mo' Fun Dan.

Retracing our steps and summiting Mount Doom would add an additional 15km of rigorous tramping and over 1,000 meters of extra climbing to an already strenuous day.  "A pretty cool physical challenge," I thought to myself.

The commotion on the deck attracted the attention of Hut Master John, who is employed by the Department of Conservation to oversee that region of the National Park.  John heard our intentions and appropriately reminded us that our decision should be grounded in respect.  "In Māori culture it is said that we are gifted these lands," he stated in a compassionate manner.  I paused to listen with reverence.  You could tell that he loved this landscape.  Respect assured, Hut Master John gave us his suggesions for summiting successfully.

Our group could sense that climbing Mount Doom this late in the day would be risky.  Tension was palpable as other group members decided whether they should climb or hike onward.  Alex & Alex simply stared into each other's eyes.  Boy Alex, interpreting something that I could not see in his wife's gaze, suddenly blurted out, "Not doing it!"  I loved that.

With back-up plans and double secret back-ups plans in place, our group split.  If we weren't able to find their campsite 9km away from the hut by midnight, they should start to worry slightly.  If we weren't there by 9am the next morning, everyone was supposed to panic.

As our trail families left us, Hut Master John came over one last time.

"Tonight is supposed to be a very special night.  Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn are going to align."

"You see that guys!" No Fun Dan exclaimed, "The planets are literally aligning for us!"

Our plan was made: Get to Mount Doom.

Only there can it be unmade... (*Spooky music*)

TO BE CONTINUED... tomorrow, because I'm tired and it's late.

Look Outside

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

"Why are you thru-hiking?" Otis asked.  With Sweet Caroline playing in the background of Podge's Bar, friends dancing freely around the billiard table, and glasses half-full, it felt more like a hikertrash party than a thru-hike.

Surely a visceral connection with nature factors in.  The sense of freedom you feel while thru-hiking is comparable to being a 13-year old on summer vacation.  "Essentially, to have fun," I offered.

"Look around you..."

Otis was right.  I am surrounded by a phenomenal trail family.  Fun seems to find us wherever we go.  The gang doesn't want me to leave, I don't want to leave. 

This reminds me of hiking with the Wrong Way Gang, Wildfire, Half Jesus, Mantis, Chopstake, Spice Man, and Chili Pepper from the PCT.  I wished we all could have hiked the entire trail together.  Groucho once reminded me to, "look outside," whenever experiencing a challenge.  As I look outside of myself at the moment, I see all of my Te Araroa friends breaking into another rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody.  Looking outside of one's self allows for a new perspective.  You notice things like Sebastian the Frenchman attempting to learn Queen lyrics just to be included in another group activity!  I might as well bust out the falsetto voice and join them as well.

Speaking of the WWG, Harpo and Groucho pivide some insight into the overarching southbound saga in their amazing blog: https://songsoutofthecity.com/about/

"But I must press on!" I thought.  Bluff is still over two-thousand kilometers away...

On Christmas Eve I met a wonderful and diverse group of people.  They traveled far and wide to pursue Te Araroa as a thru-hike.  I warned them that I would be pressing onwards Christmas Day.  I had to stay on schedule. 

Something magical happened.  We laughed all night, played music on Otis's travel-sized guitar, and shared stories.  Our group grew close.  We became a trail family.  And just like that, 40km days became 20km days.  Being pulled into Podge's Bar was one of the many recent examples of Trail Magic our group has experienced.  I feel compelled to share these tales of Trail Magic with you all...

● December 30th was amazing.  Our group walked through a nudist beach in Ruakaka.  We ate Fish n' Chips in Waipu (I eat fish n' chips everywhere here).  Then we found the most incredible campsite overlooking the Pacific Ocean on a hilltop. 

Immediately after capturing a scandalous butt photo for Facebook, we hear the sound of an ATV climbing the hillside to our site.  We met Jason, Frank, and Nicola who informed us that we were on private property, but we were welcome to camp there.  Two more ATV's came rumbling uphill.  Each of them carrying multiple passengers.

"Who are these terrorists?!?" grumbled the witty old man.  It was obvious that he had been drinking.  Or as Reyne would say, he was half-cut.  "This is my land, but you're welcome to camp all over it." 

The conversation with the locals evolved into an invitation to join their party down the hill at their cabin.  I encouraged the crew to embrace this unexpected magic, and down the hill we went!

We stumbled upon a backcountry cabin with music blaring and a fire roaring.  Soon we were drinking home-brewed ale and rum, playing cards, and painting murals on the cabin walls.  Reyne and I stayed an extra two hours laughing with the locals.  At the end of the night, we were chauffeured back up the hill via an exhilarating ATV ride.  We were given a huge jug of homebrew as a parting gift.  It was a crazy night.  One of many to come consecutively...

● On New Years Eve we gathered together on Pakiri Beach to celebrate.  I performed a rendition of The Lorax while Tobi played guitar.  We competed in a game of Scrumpy Hands, which is the Kiwi version of Edward 40-Hands.  Kate's friend James flew up from Christchurch to join us.

That's when the magic began!

James caught a fortuitous hitch to the Pakiri Beach.  (Kiwi hospitality is legendary.)  The hitch provider was a  friendly local named Tristan.  The hitch went so well that James invited Tristan to join us at our beachside extravaganza. 

Darkness fell,  the surf picked up, and our tents shook violently in the wind.

After a few more hours of debauchery our group was presented with an opportunity.  "A storm is coming. 180mm of rain in 24 hours.  You guys are welcome to crash at my place," Tristan eagerly proposed.  It took us awhile to consider the offer.  Honestly, Tristan repeated his New Years Eve alternative 16 times and I finally said, "Guys we have to take him up on this magic!"  Minutes later we were packing up and shuttling to a stranger's home for the countdown to the New Year.  Just after midnight, The Great Deluge of 2016 began.

We woke up on January 1st to find Tristan preparing farm fresh eggs and ham.  He cooked for nine people (while also providing space and hot showers for nine filthy hikers) out of the goodness of his heart.  He asked for nothing in return.  Tristan even offered us free accommodation for a second night, but we thanked him and explained how we had to return to the trail.  We didn't want to overstay our greatly appreciated welcome!

● The magic continued New Years Day as Reyne (Hilarious Kiwi), Sebastian (Romantic Frenchman), Maria (Newest Group Member - German) and I pulled ahead of the group only to get caught in another driving rain storm.  Our German friend Tobi was able to secure an earlier hitch into town even while looking like a dripping wet serial killer in his full-body durable poncho.  (This same hitch provider took Tobi out for tea once they got to town - what a country!)

After 4 more hours of walking we were certain that Tobi would be gone for good.  We headed into the town of Orewa at sunset to seek reprieve from the cold only to find that the hostels were booked. 

While drying out in Maccas (Kiwi slang term for McDonald's) we were able to convince a hostel owner to toss four thin mattresses down in a communal space for the night.  Amazingly, Tobi happened to be at that same hostel.

● January 2nd turned out to be a real treasure.  If you're still reading, this is when it gets good.  Reyne and I trudged through the rain together when suddenly a car pulled over.  With a surfboard stuffed in his backseat, and his eyes burning red from sea salt, a Te Araroa veteran pulled over to ask, "Are you guys thru-hiking?!" 

Luke completed Te Araroa in 2012-2013.  Our large packs looked all too familiar.  Within minutes, Luke invited Reyne and I to stay at his flat that night.  A few moments after arriving, Reyne and I were introduced to the game of the century...

Rules of Vase-ball (Copyright belongs to Luke, Michelle, Rory, Stephen, and Laura)

- In the center of a table, a cylindrical vase stands empty and upright.

- Participants entering the arena must have a drink in their hand.

- Ping pong balls must be shot from approximately 1-meter away.

- If a participant sinks a shot, they can nominate an opponent to take a drink.  The shot maker must remove their ping pong ball after a make.

- If another participant sinks a shot before an opponent's made shot is retrieved, the original shot maker drinks twice.

Ping pong balls were flying everywhere.  Before we knew it, Reyne and I were invited to go grab Vietnamese food in Takapuna with this energetic bunch.  Stephen even accomplished an unprecedented eating feat at the Vietnamese establishment.  The beer flowed like wine.  Cab fares and bus fares were covered by these kind strangers.  When we got back that night, Luke and Rory treated us to a musical performance of a lifetime.  Laura and Michelle made us feel like lifelong friends.  It was the greatest flat in the world!  It was a tough place to leave.  Thank you Luke, Michelle, Rory, Stephen, and Laura for your inimitable kindness!

● On January 3rd Reyne and I continued our coastal walk with Auckland's Sky Tower in sight.  Out of nowhere a wonderful man chased us down and asked us what we were hiking.  "Te Araroa,  New Zealand's Long Pathway," Reyne explained.  "We walked here from Cape Reinga." 

"Oh cool!" Marcus exclaimed. "Do you guys want to come in for a cold drink?!?"  We had only departed from Luke's an hour prior, but you learn to become a "Yes!" person on the trail.

Marcus brought us into his home, introduced to his wife and kids, and we proceeded to share travel stories.  We also had a lovely sidebar conversation about The Force Awakens.  Marcus and Sue really blew us away with their hospitality and their genuine interest in our journey.  Reyne and I left their home in the highest of spirits.  Receiving all of this unexpected magic certainly humbles and invigorates you.  It makes me want to be a more loving person.  The good karma of the Kiwi people is off the charts!  Thank you Marcus, Sue, Louis, and Ella for being so generous with your time.  You guys make me want to listen to the stories of others more intently.

I continued on my own into Devonport and got stopped by an elderly couple who were interested in my backpack.

"Where are you king with such a big pack?"

"To Bluff!"

"...I see... You'll want some of this chocolate then?"

I thanked them profusely.  What a week!  Kate, Rebekah, Otis, James, Sebastian, Reyne, and his lovely girlfriend Brooke all converged upon the Devonport Ferry site at once.  We were off to Auckland!  Rebekah and I did our best imitation of Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet as we approached Auckland.

Tobi, Manuela, and Maria were there to greet us.  The gang was back together, albeit temporarily.

Kate's cousin Tracey graciously allowed us to stay at her house for two days in Auckland.  We played a lot of Rummy Cube and had a farewell party for Tobi who was moving on to the South Island.

It's sad to lose a group member like Tobi.  I had so much fun getting to know him since Christmas Eve.  He has such a good soul!  Tobi was our bodysurfing champion!  He is full of life and eager to do anything.  It's crazy, Reyne and Sebastian met Tobi just before the 90 Mile Beach by Cape Reinga.  Tobi was simply starting his solo North Island vacation.  Reyne and Seb told him what they were doing, and Tobi just decided that he would walk Te Araroa too!!!  What an impulsive decision! (I call this, "pulling a Tobi.")  He ended up walking 600km on a whim!

At a pub in Auckland, Tobi told me that he was having one of the most amazing times of his life.  This was his last supper with the group.

His words stuck with me.  He was having a great time with this group.  It was emotional, it was powerful.

• • •

As we walked towards Hamilton, we were offered to sleep for free in two backyards.  One of them leads us back to the beginning of this blog post. 

While at Podge's, I thought of what Otis said, I thought about what Tobi said, I thought about what Groucho said.  None of this trail magic would have befallen us had the group dynamics been different.  This trail is keeping us together.  As Wildfire and Half Jesus used to say, "The trail provides!"

Kate, Rebekah, Otis, Sebastian, Reyne, Manuela, Maria, Tobi... This TA family has become a critical part of the journey.  It will only get better as our mate Tim returns this week! (He left the trail due to a foot injury before New Years Eve... and to do some wakeboarding / rollerblading because he's so damn interesting.)

It's time for me to pull a Tobi, look outside of myself, and commit to the group as long as possible. 

*****************

Godspeed Tobi, see you on the Appalachian Trail!

The Force Awakens

By Tyler Socash

IG: @tylerhikes

I felt The Force.  It happened as I straddled a live wire meant to keep one-ton livestock at bay.  Te Araroa takes you across beautiful beaches, through babbling streams, and into rolling farmlands.  I was at a property line in Kerikeri when The Force of voltage pulsed through me so shockingly that I almost released my dark side.  Yup, I tripped an electric fence right between my thighs.  Welcome to New Zealand!

I landed in Auckland on Wednesday, December 15th.  Immediately upon reaching the terminal I had to make my way though customs.  "Is this really you?" the agent wavered, unsure whether he should let a bearded Tyler Socash enter his country, or not.  "Yeah that's totally me," I responded nonchalantly.  "...These are not the droids you're looking for," I thought. "...OK! Kia Ora, enjoy New Zealand!"  

Working my way towards baggage claim, I spotted the two things that I needed: an outlet adapter (the plug-ins are different in NZ), and a sleeve of Tim Tams.  These chocolate delicacies tasted so good!  I had officially arrived. 

The next bit happened in a blur.  Get downtown via public transit.  Find an i-Site.  Book a bus ticket to Kaitaia.  Purchase a Department of Conservation Hut Pass.  Buy fuel.  Buy groceries. 

In need of some downtime, I entered a café and struck up a conversation with a really nice Colombian girl. I get on a bus. I met a nice Kiwi girl named Lisa.  I learned some NZ slang including my need to achieve, "squad goals."  Met 3 guys from Europe.  They have full-sized guitars and pillows affixed to their packs. Took 4 hitches to get to Cape Reinga.  Suddenly I'm walking down the 90 Mile Beach.  I'm swimming in the Tasman Sea.  ...I felt something, a presence I hadn't felt since... The PCT!  I'm back in the zone!  

But something happened in the outside world.  A particular movie was released.  When I discovered that the quaint historical town of Kerikeri had a cinema, I was convinced that I had to go.  I had to watch a movie that would transcend expectations and take me into the cosmos.  Welcome to my unabashed juxtaposition of Star Wars Episode VII and Te Araroa. 

***SPOILER WARNING***

If you have not walked Te Araroa yet, these thru-hike reveals will absolutely upset you.  

A short time ago on an island far, far away...

Luke Skywalker has vanished.  The opening credits inform us that everyone is looking for him, including the new baddies, THE FIRST ORDER. 

I am missing.  2015 marks the first year that I have not been home for Christmas.  

In one of the opening scenes, Poe Dameron, ace X-Wing fighter pilot for the Resistance, is given a highly coveted map divulging Luke's whereabouts. 

I use maps all the time on Te Araroa. 

During the first battle, one of the Stormtroopers becomes self-aware.  This Stormtrooper, named Finn, assists Poe Dameron's escape from the clutches of the First Order.  Unfortunately, their spacecraft crashes.  Poe is feared dead. 

I saw someone crash on 90 Mile Beach... 

 High Tide is coming...

Rey, the new protagonist, is introduced.  She's awesome, and much like a young whipper snapper from Tatoine, she had a humble upbringing as an orphan.  The Force is strong in her.  

All protagonists need sage advice from a mentor.  Surprise surprise!  Han Solo happens to return and seems to embrace Rey as an understudy.  While evading the First Order in the Millennium Falcon, Rey, Han, Chewbacca, and Finn develop solid chemistry.  It's a fun ride, and as the viewer you feel a sense of kinship with this space family. 

After hiking through the Northland's Forest Tracks, I met my new trail family.   

The Force Awakens as the squad assembles. 

Our night in the Millennium Falcon, aka The Love Shak.

Kate and I pose with Stormtroopers.

Introducing my Te Araroa Trail Family...

Kate from New Zealand. Kate is our fearless leader.  She's our Rey.  Whether it's on the trail galvanizing the troops or in towns organizing our needs and fending off creepy old dudes at hostels, we count on Kate to keep us on track. 

Tobi from Germany.  Tobi Wan Kenobi.  Tobi has an affinity for the ocean and encourages us to swim as much as possible.  He's very friendly, and an excellent body surfer. 

Reyne from New Zealand.  Reyne is our smooth-talking, handsome, and cavalier member.  Everybody loves Reyne.  He's our Han Solo. 

Sebastian from France.  Seb is our romantic Frenhman with a wonderful accent.  His strength to push through a serious IT-band injury is admirable.  Due to his height, we've got our Chewbacca. 

Otis from the USA.  With an Appalachian Trail thru-hike under his belt, we've got a venerable veteran in the group.  Otis is our Jedi Master planner.  Therefore, he's our Luke Skywalker. 

Rebekah from New Zealand.  When I told Rebekah that she reminded me of BB-8, the lovable, animated droid who steals the show, she exalted, "Yes!  I want to be him!!!"

Manuela from Switzerland.  Without Manuela, we wouldn't have celebrated Christmas.  She pulled the group together to play games on Christmas Eve, and kicked the party off with style.  Manuela didn't enjoy the mud in the Herekino Forest, much like a Princess, so I deem her to be our wonderful Princess Leia. 

Tim from New Zealand.  Tim is funny.  Tim is our favorite.  Tim is a five-time New Zealand Rollerblading Champion.  One night Tim hobbled into our beach camp at 10pm after catching a lucky hitch from "the coolest 11-year old in the world."  Tim has a commanding presence, and embraces the Dark Side. He's Kylo Ren.  

When the gang is together, we do amazing things. We sea kayak, we have drinking game parties, we eat at McDoanld's together, we laugh our way down road walks, we stumble across dotterel eggs on the beach, we body surf together, we get lucky hitches. 

By myself, I went fast.  I nearly hiked 40km per day!  Like Finn, I was on the run.  I was chasing my dreams down the trail as fast as possible.  But, like Finn, I changed my plans to be with the group.  I'm going slower, and having fun.  I'm making best friends.  I love these guys!!

This looks like the last scene in the movie, the First Jedi Temple. 

The movie ends with another Death Star, an obligatory trench run, and a lightsaber battle.  The last seconds are very powerful.  It's very emotional.  The elusive Luke Skywalker takes off his hood, staring intently at our new hero, Rey.  It's such a cool scene.  No words are exchanged, but you feel Luke's pain.  You should go see this movie!  

I rank this movie as a 10/10.  It's one of the greatest movies I've ever watched.  

I hope there's a hooded character waiting for me at Bluff, the bottom of the South Island.  I hope to be called to another great adventure.  So far, this one has been incredible, with the people enhancing the walk.  Deciding to make sacrifices to go on a long walk has been my awakening.  The Force that literally pulsed through me in Kerikeri aligns with the metaphorical Force I feel while thru-hiking.  

...May The Force be with you! (But far, far away from your private parts.)

The Greatest Adenture is what lies ahead. 

 

On Leaving, Again

By Tyler Socash

IG: @tylerhikes

"Should I have been packing?  Should I have been planning?" I wondered.  This homecoming tour has been jam packed with events: hikes in the Adirondacks, an ad hoc 10-year high school reunion, holiday parties with former colleagues and neighbors, my first time visiting a cougar bar (Taylor's in Pittsford, NY – it's awesome), a garbage plate a Mark's Texas Hots in Rochester, and even meeting with the press a couple of times.  It was a whirlwind.  I never seemed to have time to plan for Te Araroa, New Zealand's 1,800-mile thru hike. Whoops!

Suddenly, I'm sitting at an international gate in LAX.  I've got a new backpack, no tent, no sleeping bag, and only a faint idea of how to arrive at Cape Reinga, Te Araroa's starting point on the northern tip of the North Island.  At least I watched The Hobbit: The Battle of Five Armies on my flight from JFK!  It's important to research a country's rich history before tramping across it. 

Te Araroa - Maori for "The Long Pathway"

I know what you're thinking... "Tyler, why did it take you so long to finally go to Taylor's?!?"  Well that's what this post is all about!...

The PCT lasted 4 months.  While on the trail, I began to realize what mattered and what didn't matter.  A tent in such an arid environment wasn't necessary.  Then it rained on me the first night that I shipped my tent ahead.  You sacrifice everything to leave your family and friends behind, and as you walk across the country you miss your family.  You miss your friends.  You miss home.  

As the old adage warns, "You never miss something until it's gone."

Then I returned!  I promised myself that I would take advantage of the time I had back home to do a healthy mixture of old and new things...

• I revisited my haunts of old.  "The Big Rock" and "The Frog Pond" outside of my childhood home deserved a visit.  This is where I played with my siblings and the neighbors all summer long when we were kids.  It was crazy to see how small "The Big Rock" looks now.  My neighbor Katie was right, my whole thru-hike journey may have started at these powerful, tiny places. 

• I bushwhacked to a place in the Adirondacks that I have never seen before.  What made this particularly special was that my Adirondack Mountain Club / Cranberry-50 thru-hike family was with me.  It was great to hike again with the people who went on my PCT preparation hike! 

• I reconnected with high school classmates, some of whom I had not seen in over 5 years.  Shout out to the Class of 2005 and to everyone else I saw at The Back Door in Old Forge!

• I cried so much at the Revelry in Rochester that I'm not sure if I'll be welcomed back!  My friends Chris, Patrick, Sarah, and Zack were kind enough to listen.  I opened up about what the trail meant to me, and I wept.  It was either really beautiful, or deeply disturbing for the other patrons to witness at this classy bar. 

• My friend Jesse went with me to see Turning Point Park and Mendon Ponds Park.  These were new trails around Rochester that we had not been to before.  It's wonderful that you can live somewhere for 10 years and still find new things to do.  We also hiked Pinnacle Hill, highest elevation in Rochester.

• I actually talked with my siblings.  Not just shooting the breeze.  We were really opening up with one another!  Whether it was in the kitchen begging my brother Eric to paddle the Northern Forest Canoe Trail with me, talking with my sister Nikki about relationships (we both read Don Miller's book Scary Close, which encourages people to be vulnerable and authentic with their spouse/children), or sharing my hopes and dreams with my brother Trey on the way to a Buffalo Bills game. 

• I went to Taylor's and I brought my friends.  While I didn't dance with any cougars, I danced fully cognizant of the fact that everyone was watching.  Damn, my Yelp review would be so positive about that place. 

• I consumed Rochester's cuisine, a garbage plate, at a new restaurant.  This was my last meal in town.  Such a phenomenal choice (qualifier: if you like greasy food and are about to go on a long walk)!

• I hiked a mountain that has eluded me since I stated hiking in the High Peaks region.  My friend Joe and I finally went up Noonmark together.  It was so awesome to connect with Joe and his wife Linda again.  They've supported my hiking quests since the beginning. 

• I tried sushi (admittedly, for the first time) at a work holiday party.  I know, crazy right?!?  I don't have a job, how did I wiggle my way into such a party?!  I'm thankful for that invite!

You might not be able to upend your life and travel tomorrow, but you can certainly do something different tonight!  Go to Taylor's Night Club (open Fridays and Saturdays only – I made multiple attempts), climb Pinnacle Hill, go to that new restaurant and order something that you've never had!  Kiss your partner with passion (come on, use some tongue), invite old friends and new people to a social gathering, check out a new local venue, compliment somebody.

Doing something silly might just make your day more fun.  Don't get sucked into a mundane routine.  Mix it up.  Have a cookie decorating party, build a few gingerbread houses, find new places for me to talk about in my next blog!

I was glad to be home for a few weeks, but now I'm off to Middle Earth.  I'll miss home, surely, but I'll be back soon.  Thanks for your support everyone!  We are about to take off, so I'm not sure if I tied this post together well.  The stewardess is telling me for the third time to turn off my device.  

Numbers

By Tyler Socash

IG: @tylerhikes

Numbers never lie.  I have compiled all of the interesting statistics that I could think of regarding my thru-hike.  These are objective facts based on my 2015 SOBO journey.  Use this information at your own risk, and by that I mean get outside into a park near you pronto!

 

2,650.1 - Total distance in miles of the Pacific Crest Trail according to the Halfmile maps. (Slightly longer than 101 marathons, and you all remember your first marathon!...)

488,411 - Total PCT vertical gain in feet while trekking those 101 marathons southbound to Mexico.  (Equivalent to nearly 17 ascents of Mt. Everest if starting from sea level.) 

This number is also from the Halfmile maps. https://www.pctmap.net/2014/03/elevation-gain-on-the-pacific-crest-trail/

I only saw 2 PCT trail markers during the first 60 miles of hiking. 

122 - Number of days that it took me to hike from monument to monument, Canada to Mexico. (June 27 - October 26, just under 4 months!  The average PCT thru-hike lasts 5 months.)

21.72 - Average number of miles hiked per day including time spent in town.  Honest math. 

4,003 - Average vertical ascent in feet per day.  That's a lot of climbing! 

3 - Pairs of Vasques boots used on the entire Pacific Crest Trail.  I also used 6 pairs of socks.

Two-thirds of my hiking footwear. 

5 - Number of trail names that I gave to other PCT hikers.  I was hoping to report back with 6 but "Talent Boy" didn't want to keep his name. 

6 - Age of the youngest person to complete the PCT, "Buddy."

76 - Age of the oldest person who I hiked with this year.  Hiking is a great lifetime sport! 

27 - Number of towns that I visited in order to resupply myself with provisions.

101.1 - Miles from Barrel Spring to the Mexican border.  This would be the longest natural-source waterless stretch for southbounders on the Pacific Crest Trail.  This is one of the main reasons why going northbound is so popular — more streams are running from snowmelt in the early Spring.  Don't worry, there are spigots and water caches along the way, but this trail would be extremely difficult without these luxuries.  Another daunting natural waterless stretch for southbounders was from Spanish Needle Creek to Robin Bird Spring, 67.9 miles.  Yes, Joshua Tree Spring is in-between, but that water is laced with uranium.  These desert distances make Oregon's 33.1-mile stretch between Thielsen Creek and Lightning Spring seem easy!  I also once thought Washington's 12-mile dry stretch around Grizzley Peak was tough!  Look how far I've come!  Rule of thumb: Fill up when water is available.  Hiking southbound was nice because by the time I got to the long waterless stretches down south I was in the best shape of my life. 

This water cache in the San Felipe Hills helps everyone out!  Thank you Trail Angels!

54 - Longest hiking distance in miles that I hiked in one day.  This stretch was from a site just south of Tehachapi Pass to Pine Canyon Road over the L.A. Aqueduct with the Wrong Way Gang.  This was one of my two double marathon days. 

14,505 - Highest elevation in feet reached on this trip.  This was an 16-mile detour to climb Mt. Whitney, California's highest peak.  The highest point on the actual PCT is Forester Pass at 13,200ft. 

140 - Lowest elevation in feet reached on this trip.  This was in Washington State near the Columbia River. 

Not many people celebrate at the PCT low point.  Here it is!

2 - Number of "zeros" that I took while hiking the PCT.  

3,500 - Cost in USD of my thru-hike, not including the plane tickets.  The average thru-hike costs between 4k-6k.  I would attribute my below average total to three things: the low number of zeros that I took, my completion speed, and having already owned hiking equipment.  New gear along the trail, resupplies, and town expenditures add up!  The secret to saving money... Don't spend the night in a town.  You already have your sleeping bag, and outside is free.  An overnight in town inevitably results in additional restaurant bills. Save some cash and donate to the lovely Trail Angels along the way instead!  

8 - Weight loss in pounds after completing the PCT. 

23 - Number of bodies of water that I swam in along the PCT.  This includes the three deepest lakes in the United States: Crater Lake, Lake Tahoe, and Lake Chelan.  I didn't count anything less than full submersion as a legit swim. 

Middle Rosary Lake, Oregon

5 - Number of black bears that I saw on the entire thru-hike.  All of the Bears ran away from me as fast as possible once they saw me.  There is no need to view this beautiful creature as an antagonist.  Bears are awesome, and I'm so happy that I saw them.

48 - Number of Wilderness areas along the PCT.  These places... Wow!

7 - Number of National Parks along the PCT.  Have you been to any of them?

2.7 - Remaining percentage of the continental U.S. protected as wilderness.  Hopefully you agree that this is a shockingly low percentage, considering that this country was nearly 100% wild a short time ago. Check www.wilderness.net 

20 - Degrees Fahrenheit that my down sleeping bag was rated for.  I was too warm most nights, but glad that I had it during the desert where I experienced the coldest temperatures.  I know, right?! "Don't you know the desert is hot?" said everyone. 

9 - Instances of precipitation while walking across Washington, Oregon, and California combined!  I imagine that total rainfall would be less than 3 days out of 122 days of thru-hiking.  I was told that this was the fourth terrible drought year in a row.  I'd expect more rain next time, especially if I went NOBO (it rains a lot in the Cascades come September).

90 - Number of nights spent cowboy camping under the stars. (The other nights: 1 in a hammock, 2 in tepees, 7 in a tent, 22 days under a roof!)

Cowboy camp set-up on Methow Pass in rugged Northern Washington.

At the OR/CA border. 

1,052.1 - Number of miles hiked without carrying a tent.  I shipped it from Cascade Locks, OR, to Echo Lake, CA to save on weight.  This was very foolish, but I just assumed it would never rain!  This means I hiked 40% of the PCT without a precipitation backup plan.  I was rained on twice during that tentless stretch — including the first night without my tent!

29 - Days that I hiked solo on the PCT.  People always ask me, "Were you alone most of the time?"  Nope, I hiked with others 76% of the time, which is probably a very high statistic for a southbound thru-hiker!  I also saw at least one other human being every single day during this thru-hike...  Maybe the trail isn't as Wild as you would hope?

56 - The highest number of northbound hikers who passed me in one day.  Everyone always wants to know where the dreaded NOBO herd is.  I encountered it on August 10th just south of Crater Lake. I met my first NOBO July 9th ("Magic," a super nice guy) in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.  I was shocked to meet the last alleged NOBO thru-hiker on Septwmber 9th in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. I hope he makes it!  My friend Half Jesus is still out there on his SOBO journey.  Just like what Billy Goat says, "The last one to the border wins!  If you go fast, you get to the monument and say, 'Well I guess I'll go home now...'  People forget why they left their job to be out here in the first place!"

1,998 - Number of miles that I carried my bear canister... From the Canadian border to Walker Pass!  You need this piece of equipment in the High Sierra. 

0 - The number of times I went to dig a 6-8 inch cathole and accidentally dug up NOBO poop.  Phew!

10 - The number of Keystone Lights I consumed before throwing in the towel during the 24-24-24 Challenge.  Groucho was able to actually complete this mythical hiker quest.  I am still amazed. 

Groucho rocking the 12-packs in each hand. 

If you liked this Numbers post, you'll tolerate this Pacific Crest Trail Finale video... Look how far my beard has come! http://youtu.be/VUmAUZ2sWI8

Enjoy the monument celebration at the end :)

I'll admit that I got lucky with an unseasonably warm June, I got lucky with weather, and I was lucky to avoid most forest fire issues.  Next year might be totally different, so please go forth prepared.  Please follow all Leave No Trace ethics on your future hike, no matter the distance.  Let's do our part to keep our trails awesome!

- Future Dad

Muir is Watching Us... From a Distance

By Tyler Socash

IG: @tylerhikes

"We are being followed," Huck uttered in a frightening tone...  After leaving the Mt. Laguna campground at dusk, a park manager warned us that cougars prowled nearby.  And no, not the type that young men fantasize about meeting at bars.  The mountain lion kind. This type of sensationalized hype now falls on deaf ears.  "You won't find water in the desert."  "It's going to be so hot in the desert."  "There are mountain lions in the desert."  Pretty soon you learn that everyone has something negative to say, when the reality is that you're going to have an awesome time in the desert.  (It has also been the coldest and the wettest place on trail - who knew?!)

But there we were, standing together, fumbling for our headlamps at nightfall.  Groucho and I were taken aback by Huck's seriousness.  "I noticed we were being followed a few minutes ago.  Then I saw its eyes staring right at me through the tall grass."  It was very dramatic to hear this in Huck's Danish accent.  

Harpo and Bug came strolling up behind us, also reporting that they heard movement in the shrubs.  Imminent danger!  This was exciting.  

The Wrong Way Gang atop Mt. Whitney, 14,505ft. 

I wasn't actually scared about the potential mountain lion.  You learn out here that animals generally want nothing to do with humans.  I was simply glad that the Wrong Way Gang had reformed. I was glad we were together.  The cougar never appeared that night (2,640 miles walked without a mountain lion sighting), but we had a lot of phenomenal experiences as a team in the past month that heightened my thru-hiking experience...

I left off my last blog post stating that I lost the Wrong Way Gang.  Indeed I did!  I traveled the High Sierra from Reds Meadow to Kearsarge Pass solo.  Unsure  that I can be as descriptive as Muir, I'll unleash some photos to assist my best efforts. 

Also, sometimes videos help: http://youtu.be/JhJXAvfXfRY

Enjoy "A Hike of Ice and Fire: The Range of Light - Part 2"

Below Selden Pass, High Sierra.  John Muir Wilderness. 

Evolution Creek, Kings Canyon National Park. 

Below Mather Pass, among the rocks and alpine lakes. 

Arrowhead Lake outlet, and probably my favorite PCT picture. 

John Muir claimed that the wilderness had spiritual significance.  It's hard to doubt the man after you walk 133 miles from Reds Meadow to the side trail for Mount Whitney.  This part of the Pacific Crest Trail is also the John Muir Trail (JMT).  I felt small.  Insignificant.  I felt like man had no business defiling nature anywhere after seeing its purest splendor.  We almost built a highway through this part of the country.  That's what we do best, build highways to propagate our automobile addiction.  Thankfully, Ronald Reagan rode out on a white horse to Reds Meadow and announced no highway would be built in the High Sierra.  It's now the longest roadless stretch in the Lower 48.  Thanks for listening to Muir. 

The High Sierra is hard to imagine.  Picture yourself as an ant.  White walls surround you as if you've been ushered to the bottom of a sacred chalice.  Somehow little rivers and wildlife navigate their way through this labryinth of canyons and peaks.  Due to the fact that you can only carry so much food on your back, your days in this mountainous paradise are numbered.  You've got to press onward.  Also, winter is coming.  You don't want to be stuck here unprepared when 3 feet of snow falls.  Or maybe you would?

I had the time of my life hiking from Selden Pass, to Silver Pass, to Muir Pass, to Mather Pass, to Pinchot Pass, to Glen Pass, to Kearsarge Pass...  These names might not mean anything to you, nor would they mean anything to me prior to experiencing them, but these places matter.  They matter because they provide stunning vistas of untrammeled wilderness.  These views are unlike anything humans in the modernized world will ever see.  No roads.  No noisy fossil fuel-guzzling machinery.  No sloppity-slop or gluppity-glup pollution.  Nothing but you and wilderness.  Since I went through in September, I saw fewer hikers.  It's a hard place to get a backcountry permit for, and deservedly so.  It's protected due to the fact that it's a rarity. Only 2.7% of our country is protected this way.  The wilderness is disappearing, and that makes me sad after spending my entire summer walking through the best of our west.  I wish there were more safe places for mountain lions to roam.  Maybe then I would have actually seen one by now?  I liken it to moose in the Adirondacks.  They are so rare, yet people seem more excited to see their population increase so that hunting them can be legal, rather than protecting more land so that moose and all other species can thrive.  Why does mankind feel the need to dominate everything?  Interesting tidbit... 10,000 years ago non-human wildlife comprised of 98% of all animal biomass on the planet.  In a fraction of earth's existence, today 98% of the planet's biomass is human or animals under the dominion of humans (cattle / farm animal industries)  Where is all the wildlife going?  The 2.7% thing has a role in that.  We are gobbling up resources and space needed by others like mountain lions and moose.  Let's not even get started on how wild animals like tigers and rhinos might go extinct before our lifetimes expire. 

The view from Pinchot Pass.  A happy picture to transition to a happier topic. 

When I hiked out of the High Sierra to resupply in Bishop, CA, I found the Wrong Way Gang!  NOBO's have been raving about Hostel California for months, so I was glad to finally stay there.  Twinless, Huck, Bug, Harpo, and Groucho were all there!  We exchanged stories all day and took care our individual town needs before leaving the next day. 

Bishop was great, but tough to hitch out of.  The trail provided a twist... 

Future Dad and Blueprint (Seth)

The Wrong Way Gang caught a bus to Independence, CA, and on that bus was my friend Seth who I met in Stehekin!  We hiked around the Glacier Peak Wlderness together with "Wildfire" and Seth's girlfriend "Darkside."  Seth was also the guy who gave me my trail name!  I couldn't believe that our paths crossed again.  Although Seth's hike was ending that day, I felt in my soul that I'd see him again someday.  What a lucky bus to catch!

The WWG climbed on.  We hiked over Forester Pass,highest point on the PCT at 13,200ft.  We summited Mount Whitney at sunrise.  Groucho orchestrated a trail magic day for JMT hikers at the summit, encouraging the WWG to help hand out candy and airplane bottles of liquor to other hikers.  We named all of our poop trowels after famous Broadway stars, singers, or actors (I'm proudly carrying Bette Midler - which stems from a running joke with "Half Jesus" about how I can never remember Bette's hit songs).  

Then there's more!  The WWG hiked a double marathon together over the Los Angeles Aqueduct section.  We got trail angeled by surprise in Agua Dulce, CA after Groucho and I attempted the 24-24-24 Challenge, which is of course when you drink 24 beers over 24 hours while hiking 24 miles.  Groucho made it!  I did not!

Enter the desert.  Kiavah Wilderness. 

Enter the 24-24-24 Challenge. 

Enter the Poodle-Dog Bush. A plant that packs more punch than poison ivy. 

The WWG even went through a tumultuous (though temporary) break up after climbing San Jacinto.  But we are back together now, just 100 miles later and with so few miles to go...

What does this PCT journey mean?  How have I changed?  Will I cry at the monument?  What was my favorite part? Am I still going to New Zealand?  Why don't I post more frequently?  What happened to the SOBO's that I no longer mention?  Was this quest the same as Wild?  

I guess you won't have to wait long for these answers.  I'm finishing the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail tomorrow morning.  

The entire Wrong Way Gang will be by my side...  Unless we finally get that mountain lion attack we were promised.