NOBO before the SOBO

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

In the darkness, we had arrived.  Four-and-a-half hours after departing from Seattle, our hiking party made it to Harts Pass, WA.  This location is ten axle-crunching miles northwest of rural Mazama, and it takes you to the northern-most trailhead on the Pacific Crest Trail.  I encourage you to open Google Maps and search for it.  Switch to "Earth mode..."  Try to imagine yourself finding this location, which is on the highest road in remote Washington, during the dead of night without ever being there before!  (No cell phone service, no clearly marked intersections.)  It was nearly 2am, and without a cloud in the sky there was no debate... we were going to cowboy camp (no tent) under the stars.  After our third shooting star in the pitch black Washington State sky, we rapidly fell asleep. 

Over the next three days, my fellow University of Rochester alumni and I would hike 33 miles to the U.S./Canadian border and back (66 total) so that I could avoid a Federal charge and begin my southbound Pacific Crest Trail hike legally — you can't simply walk into the United States from Canada anymore!  Inherently, a southbound (SOBO) journey is "tougher" than a northbound (NOBO) trek, but only 33 miles harder out of 2,650...  In the grand scheme of things, both ways are unfathomably difficult.  Maybe the extra hiking is a subtle factor that causes over 1,000 hikers to attempt the PCT northbound annually while only 100 or fewer will attempt it southbound?  The 33 bonus miles are among the most scenic, and arguably among the most physically taxing (especially when you consider that your body is still in sedentary office mode) along the trail.

Tyler, Paul, Jamie, and Bridget on Day 1

This section of the PCT in the North Cascades boasts 14,787 feet of elevation gain from the border to Rainy Pass on Route 20.  Even for four fit and former University of Rochester Cross Country runners, these three days were grueling.  The Pacific Crest Trail has approximately a 50% success rate for thru-hikers attemping to go border-to-border (depending on the year), and after our 20+-mile days it was apparent why so many people leave the trail.  The first leg in the Pasayten Wilderness will humble even the strongest athletes.

Alpine flora in the Pasayten Wilderness

The difficulty of this first section is overpowered by its beauty.  I've hiked in many special places, but I already know that I'm experiencing my favorite life moment.  The Pasayten Wilderness, which brings you to the Pacific Crest Trail monument on the border of Canada, boasts remarkable views and wildlife.  The denizens of this region include deer, moose, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and the largest population of lynx in the Lower 48.  

 En route to the U.S./Canadian border.

That moment when a life-changing adventure begins!  

For the record: I made Paul, Bridget, and Jamie sing the National Anthem as we stepped back into the United States.  This was, perhaps, the finest rendition of the Star Spangled Banner ever sung while entering the country.  This will become a tradition!

Our backcountry campsite was on the other side of Three Fools Peak. 

I'm very excited to walk to Mexico!

Here are a few things that have surprised me so far:

• in 16 days on the trail, I have only used my tent three times. (A generous donation from my friend Seth - thanks Seth!)  The weather has been amazing, and cowboy camping has become my favorite thing to do!

• I only saw two Pacific Crest Trail markers during the 70+ mile stretch from the border to Rainy Pass.  That's it!  Nearly every tree has a trail marker on it back east.  You need your maps out here! 

• the U.S. Women's National Team won the World Cup!?!?  That's awesome!  It's also pretty cool that the only thing that matters on trail is self-regulation... and your happiness of course!  

I hope to have ~140 sunsets like this while on trail. 

I'll end this post with something from The Hobbit:

The greatest adventure is what lies ahead.
Today and tomorrow are yet to be said.
The chances, the changes are all yours to make.
The mold of your life is in your hands to break.

Until the next time I have service... (only happened two times in over 280 miles of hiking) be well and thank you all for the support!  The trail is wonderful!  The first few days were blister-filled and physically demanding, but I'll get stronger every day on trail.  Advice I received from a friend: "The first two weeks are all mental.  The second two weeks are all physical.  If you make it through four weeks, you will make it to Mexico."