Simply Walking Into Mordor: Part 2

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes 

I'm currently sitting in an outhouse along the Whanganui River section of Te Araroa.  The plain exterior of the latrine gave me little hope, but as it turns out this is a remarkably good place to think and reflect.  While basking in solitude, I'm reminded that I left Part 2 of my Tongariro Crossing hike hanging.  6 days into a 7-day paddle, I thought now would be the best time to retell my favorite day of tramping....

....but first we really need to unpack what is happening in this outhouse.  Shuttering as I meekly creaked the door open, I was taken aback by the sleek interior.  The bland wood tones revealed no sign of wear, nor any noticeable trace of human defilement.

"Is this a 10/10 outhouse with regards to cleanliness?" I asked myself.  Yes, yes it is true.  Unexpected and unprecedented!

This Whanganui River outhouse now stands an exemplar, a beacon of hope for all other outhouses to emulate.  Jer and I give you the official Outhouse Rankings Criterion:

● Cleanliness (0-10)
● Smell / Ventilation (0-10)
● Spiders / Insects (0-10)
● Lighting, Locking Mechanism, & General Aesthetics (0-10)
● The Long Drop (0-10)

Thanks for reading that, and now I digress...

I was simultaneously nervous and excited.  Jer, Dan, and I left the Mangatepopo Hut at precisely 5:30pm armed with one personal locator beacon, one bottle of water, our cameras, and three headlamps.  I remember using the Mangatepopo outhouse before I left.  It was just OK.  We wanted to travel light so that we could return to our packs as quickly as possible.  Our friends were pushing onward another 9km, so we suspected that we wouldn't catch up with them until midnight.

My nervous energy dissipated as we began our 5km uphill jog towards the base of Mount Ngauruhoe.  The conversations between the three of us certainly seemed to shorten the distance.  Jer and Dan are two of the nicest Americans I could have hoped to meet on trail.  Loveable, humble, tall, tanning, handsome.  These boys make me laugh, and more importantly, they make me think.  Surround yourself with exceptional people, and you yourself will improve.

Jer is a legend.  Jer competes in triathlons.  Jer already completed a pure thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.  Jer was born in Hawaii.  I respect Jer.  Jer has a blog.  You will enjoy his blog immensely.  Allow me to direct you to the promised land.  Jer and Anna actually update their blog regularly.    Only continue reading mine to hear more about Dan...

Dan is a heroic firefighter (Dan, you are my hero, and this is my blog).  Dan is a man of science.  Dan loves the great American band Guster.  Dan has many nicknames, including Downstream Dan, Graceful Dan, No Fun Dan, Dislodge Dan, and Midnight Eggs Dan.  I respect Dan.

Man-crushes aside, the slopes of this volcano are intimidating.  Ngauruhoe appears to have a sustained 40 degree pitch for 600 vertical meters in every approach to the summit crater.  Jer and Dan will disarm you with their charming smiles, just to toss in one more man-crush sentiment.

At 6:18pm we stand in awe at the red and black mass of Mount Doom.  Now at its base, we evaluate our approach.  An interpretive sign shows us where the 1975 lava flow happened.  That's not too long ago in geological time...  We are about to climb an active volcano.

Jer, Dan, and I begin the ascent.  It's easy for the first 10 minutes.  Then we hit the scree field.  Loose lava rock shifts and manipulates our boots into awkward positions as we ascend.  It's a "choose your own adventure" up there.  Previous trampers, all seeking the easiest/safest path upwards, have made footpaths in every direction.  Every step leaves a footprint, and our arduous climb was only beginning.

"Let's ask these two people descending which way they recommend," I said to Jer and Dan.  As the two hikers retreated it didn't look like they had a successful go at summiting.  They carried heavy demeanors, heavier packs, and one of them had a freshly bloodied leg.  Unfortunately they only made it a hundred meters uphill before being forced back by the difficulty.  I began to wonder if Ngauruhoe's glamorized reputation as Mount Doom encouraged hoards of ill-equipped trampers to attempt a summit approach.  Were the three of us sucked into the same trap?

The struggle was real.  Three fit men in the prime of their lives were moving one step forwards, two steps back.  Ngauruhoe's scree was unforgiving.  I dislodged one rock which tumbled past my friends and went all the way to the base of the mountain.  Tongariro Crossing, which seemed high as we hiked over it in the afternoon, already looked impossibly far down from our elevated vantage point.

Hope faded as we made tortoise-like progress.  The sun was setting.  It was getting colder, and none of us brought warm layers...

Just then a spry man came darting down the scree as a downhill skier carves through fresh powder.

"Hey!" I cried out to him.  We were at our vertical limit. "Is there another approach that you would recommend?  We are having some trouble here."

"Sure," the tramper offered, "aim for that rock spine off to the left."

Any alternative sounded better than our current route.  The three of us scurried along the volcanic rock and completed the traverse to the rock spine.  Our spirits lifted immediately.  Solid ground!  Handholds!  More time to think of our favorite LOTR quotes!  I even found a discarded bottle with water in it.  (We carried it out... And drank all of the water.)  The Leave No Trace battle against the Leave Trace supporters is unending.

As we crested the summit crater, we noticed thermal vents giving off sulfuric steam.  Elation!  We made it!  Our enthusiasm was palpable.  The three of us released barbaric shouts into the atmosphere.  Jer stood in the hot gaseous vents.  Dan noticed Ruapehu in the distance.  We ran along the summit ridge as a team.  We were so pumped.

That's when we noticed the snowfield.  "Should we make snow angels?" Jer asked rhetorically.  Of course we would make snow angels.  How many times in your life will you be able to make snow angels on top of Mount Doom?!?!

Euphoria.  That's what it was.  Mount Taranaki's conical peak jutted up above the clouds far in the western sky.  Ruapehu's snow-crested ridge glistened in the waning sunlight.  The volcanic fields around Tongariro National Park made us feel like we were on Mars with Matt Damon.  Climbing up to the actual crater of Ngauruhoe's peak truly felt like being on top of Middle Earth. 

The descent made me think of Kate and Bekah.  I thought of Kate because she is an avid skier, and we were glissading down the scree field like Olympians carving fresh powder.  Jer entered Beast Mode and finished his rapid descent in 20 minutes!  I thought of Bekah because only hours earlier we promised to do Mount Doom together someday.  Now I know the correct approach for our next Mount Doom attempt.  Punctuated with an epic full moonrise over this volcanic kingdom, it was time to go back to our trail families. 

Reyne, Sebastien, Kate, Rebekah... We all make up "The Cute Boys Club" (shout out to my friend Zack back in Rochester).  That's our trail family name.  Jer and Dan have been traveling with "Couples Retreat" along with Anna, Alex, and Alex. 

As we scampered downhill, Mount Doom's shadow extended over Tongariro Crossing.  The shadow was nearly 10km long.  Our bedraggled bunch returned to the Mangatepopo Hut at 9:30pm, exactly 4 hours after our departure.  Add this trip to your bucket list, but try to go during the shoulder season.  We had Mount Doom to ourselves at the summit, and I'd want you to have the same magical experience.  I'm glad that I utilized the Awesome Principle and made an everlasting memory with Jer and Midnight Eggs Dan. 

As the aphorism states, a rising tide lifts all ships.  You'll learn in the next blog how a rising Whanganui River sinks all ships...

That's all from the Hipango Park outhouse!  I cannot believe that there are no spiders in here.

Simply Walking Into Mordor: Part 1

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

"Respect the mountain, and it will respect you."  Hut Master John was asking us to tread both thoughtfully and carefully.  We would be entering sacred Māori territory, where respect is paramount.

Sitting at Mangatepopo Hut at 5pm, our day was allegedly over.  We had already completed the popular Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of New Zealand's nine "Great Walks."  This is a *must do* if you ever find yourself on the North Island.  The traverse is about 17.5km long, and it'll be a walk to remember. 

Day complete!  We were up at 5:30am to cover the 1,100 meters of ascent.  We had already stowed our discount Halloween costumes away. (I dressed up as a sexy nurse most of the day.  Reyne was in a skimpy Superman suit, Bekah was a boisterous Batman, Kate was a beautiful ballerina, Sebastien was an elderly woman, and newcomer Dan wore his standard clothes.  Dan now goes by, "No Fun Dan.")  We arrived at the backcountry hut, consumed our instant noodles, and napped.

What more could be done on this day of tramping?  I was already looking forward to a game of Euchre at our campsite.  This game, as it turns out, wasn't in the cards tonight.  Did you see what I did there?  I italicized the idiom.

From 2001-2003, our world was rocked by the cinematic-adaptation of New Zealand's sensational history.  In The Lord of the Rings, we follow Frodo Baggins and Samwise Gamgee as they attempt to destroy the One Ring in the very fires of Mordor.  Some people walk across New Zealand having never watched the trilogy.  This is fine, especially if you celebrate the 4th of July having never seen Independence Day starring none other than America's heartthrob, Jeff Goldblum.

It just so happens that the infamous "Mount Doom" from The Lord of the Rings is a towering 600 meters above and adjacent to the Tongariro Crossing trail.  Mount Ngauruhoe was used as director Peter Jackson's dramatic Mordor setting.  Tourists flock to Tongariro to see and sometimes to take a crack at summiting this iconic volcano.

At approximately 2pm, I strolled right by the trailhead of Ngauruhoe.  "Beware of Falling Rocks!" a sign warned.  "Beware of Pyroclastic Flow!" an interpretive sign signaled.  "If you hear rumbling, run!" instructed a temporary sign in section of recently destroyed trail.

These geological happenings seemed more sensational than realistic.  "Maybe Tyler is exaggerating his own tale just to keep me reading?" asks the reader.  "Perhaps these signs are posted for litigious reasons?" questions another.  "I think that the sexy nurse costume was a little over the top," complains a third. 

These fictious people may have a point.  Thank you blog readers for tolerating my writing style.  I think you are beautiful.  I hope brutal honesty is what you look forward to.  I feel very grateful to be out here right now, and I'm thinking of you all as winter's grip tightens back home in the Northern Hemisphere.  Will someone please throw a snowball or shovel an ice rink for me?  Sometimes I miss home while in New Zealand, the people... The places.  I love you guys.

On the ascent we walked by an impact crater caused by a 2012 side vent eruption.  Ngauruhoe itself last spewed lava in 1975.  As we climbed we saw thermal vents spewing sulfuric gases.  We heard the mountain rumbling from within.  Hyperbole intended, this blog post is about my best day on Te Araroa.  What a loquacious introduction!  Allow me to whisk you away into the Danger Zone...

At 5:30am I heard No Fun Dan bellow my name.  Sleep was hard to come by that night as the mosquitos were out in full force.  Waking up early was our only solution to our sun problem.  The ozone over New Zealand is thin.  Sun exposure has resulted in blistered hands, calves, and noses.  We hoped to get most of the tough climbing done before the summer heat escalated.

As the trail exited the bush and entered the alpine scrub, we began to experience the sights, sounds, and smells of geothermal activity.  I made a 12-egg dish with curry powder at our last town stop, which put me at the brunt of a few jokes as we walked by sulfuric vents.  Even the streams smelled pungent.  Steam rose from curious pockets around the mountain.  It was like Yellowstone.

Higher we climbed until reaching the recently abandoned Ketetahi Hut.  Only a few years ago, boulders were jettisoned from the Te Mari vent a few kilometers away.  One landed on the hut's roof.  Another left a large impact crater in the hut's front yard.  "This is what killed the dinosaurs," I jested.  No one laughed.  Too soon?

While having our early morning snack, we spotted our new best friends in the alpine shrubs below.  Two married couples, Americans Jer & Anna and Aussies Alex & Alex, (we call this trail family, "Couples Retreat") made their way uphill.  After some shouting back and forth, we surrendered to the pull of hiking and left before they arrived. 

Topping out at 1,750 meters, we understand why Tongariro is labeled a "Great Walk": the flat Central Crater contrasts with the towering peaks around it, Blue Lake glistens and blinds us, stark volcanic landscspe abounds, all while Mount Doom looms in the background.

Also, you begin to see hoards of people.

New Zealand's Great Walks are like American National Parks.  The main  attractions are manicured.  The infrastructure in New Zealand doesn't seem to impede upon the natural beauty, but surely more latrines and bigger carparks are needed.  The double edge sword of conservation... If you build it, they will come.  Once they come you hope they develop a visceral connection with the natural world, causing these visitors vote for conservation efforts that appear on the next ballot.  Rare alpine plants are going to get stepped on, wildlife is disturbed, but most of the time our temporary excursion into untrammeled lands is beneficial.  Inviting others to experience the trials of outdoor recreation is a necessary balancing act.  (This works as long as the Leave No Trace participants outnumber the Leave Trace participants.)

As the endless sea of northbound dayhikers approached us at Blue Lake, we changed our attire.

A week earlier Kate and Bekah encouraged us to purchase old Halloween costumes for fun.  They figured that we would maximize exposure during Tongariro Crossing due to the hike's popularity.  I figured that I could maximize exposure by choosing an ill-fitting nurse garment.  We were all correct.  Kate and Rebekah inject a tremendous amount of fun into the group.  Grabbing costumes was such a good idea.  We also donned them at our 1,000km marker a week prior to get more use out of them.  I think of Kate and Bekah as best friends.  I feel like we feed of each other's energy, and these Women in the Wild are quick to find humor in all situations.

It was memorable to trek in costume.  It was also memorable because the Tongariro Crossing views were so different to anything I've ever witnessed in my life.  Magical!  Unreal!  The Emerald Lakes were reflecting aquamarine colors, smoke billowed from underground, and the occasional rumble kept everyone on their toes. 

Scrambling up to Red Crater, we doffed our superfluous textiles and resumed the hike in standard clothes.  We ran up to Mount Tongariro to catch a view of snowy Mount Ruapehu, tallest mountain in the North Island.  We slowly made our way down to the South Crater, reconvened with the Couples Retreat, and happily ambled into Mangatepopo Hut.  This was already my favorite day of hiking on Te Araroa.  It felt great to be among friends, while also remaining far, far away from orks, ring wraiths, and the evil creatures of Middle Earth.

                               * * *

I'm sitting next to Jer on the deck of the hut at 5:01pm, when he suddenly turns to me and says, "So you want to give this a shot?"

"What?  Mount Doom?!" I sputtered incredulously.  The base of Ngauruhoe was 5km and hundreds of vertical meters in the opposite direction of our intended campsite.  From our bench, we were provided with a daunting view of the enormous volcano.

"Yeah, you know, I'm just thinking about cameling up with some water, taking my headlamp, and going for it.  You down?..."

I actually buried my face in my palms for a few seconds.  Others on the deck began to realize that Jer was serious. 

"...You know, travel light," Jer continued, "slack pack it, stash most of our stuff here at the hut, meet up with the gang around midnight 9km down the trail."

I actually busted out the Awesome Principle guys.  I ran through two scenarios in my head.  Then I vocalized the two fictional scenarios for everyone to hear.  I forced myself to choose the more awesome scenario.  "I'm in."

"Me too," chimed No Fun Dan, who was suddenly becoming Mo' Fun Dan.

Retracing our steps and summiting Mount Doom would add an additional 15km of rigorous tramping and over 1,000 meters of extra climbing to an already strenuous day.  "A pretty cool physical challenge," I thought to myself.

The commotion on the deck attracted the attention of Hut Master John, who is employed by the Department of Conservation to oversee that region of the National Park.  John heard our intentions and appropriately reminded us that our decision should be grounded in respect.  "In Māori culture it is said that we are gifted these lands," he stated in a compassionate manner.  I paused to listen with reverence.  You could tell that he loved this landscape.  Respect assured, Hut Master John gave us his suggesions for summiting successfully.

Our group could sense that climbing Mount Doom this late in the day would be risky.  Tension was palpable as other group members decided whether they should climb or hike onward.  Alex & Alex simply stared into each other's eyes.  Boy Alex, interpreting something that I could not see in his wife's gaze, suddenly blurted out, "Not doing it!"  I loved that.

With back-up plans and double secret back-ups plans in place, our group split.  If we weren't able to find their campsite 9km away from the hut by midnight, they should start to worry slightly.  If we weren't there by 9am the next morning, everyone was supposed to panic.

As our trail families left us, Hut Master John came over one last time.

"Tonight is supposed to be a very special night.  Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn are going to align."

"You see that guys!" No Fun Dan exclaimed, "The planets are literally aligning for us!"

Our plan was made: Get to Mount Doom.

Only there can it be unmade... (*Spooky music*)

TO BE CONTINUED... tomorrow, because I'm tired and it's late.

Look Outside

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

"Why are you thru-hiking?" Otis asked.  With Sweet Caroline playing in the background of Podge's Bar, friends dancing freely around the billiard table, and glasses half-full, it felt more like a hikertrash party than a thru-hike.

Surely a visceral connection with nature factors in.  The sense of freedom you feel while thru-hiking is comparable to being a 13-year old on summer vacation.  "Essentially, to have fun," I offered.

"Look around you..."

Otis was right.  I am surrounded by a phenomenal trail family.  Fun seems to find us wherever we go.  The gang doesn't want me to leave, I don't want to leave. 

This reminds me of hiking with the Wrong Way Gang, Wildfire, Half Jesus, Mantis, Chopstake, Spice Man, and Chili Pepper from the PCT.  I wished we all could have hiked the entire trail together.  Groucho once reminded me to, "look outside," whenever experiencing a challenge.  As I look outside of myself at the moment, I see all of my Te Araroa friends breaking into another rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody.  Looking outside of one's self allows for a new perspective.  You notice things like Sebastian the Frenchman attempting to learn Queen lyrics just to be included in another group activity!  I might as well bust out the falsetto voice and join them as well.

Speaking of the WWG, Harpo and Groucho pivide some insight into the overarching southbound saga in their amazing blog: https://songsoutofthecity.com/about/

"But I must press on!" I thought.  Bluff is still over two-thousand kilometers away...

On Christmas Eve I met a wonderful and diverse group of people.  They traveled far and wide to pursue Te Araroa as a thru-hike.  I warned them that I would be pressing onwards Christmas Day.  I had to stay on schedule. 

Something magical happened.  We laughed all night, played music on Otis's travel-sized guitar, and shared stories.  Our group grew close.  We became a trail family.  And just like that, 40km days became 20km days.  Being pulled into Podge's Bar was one of the many recent examples of Trail Magic our group has experienced.  I feel compelled to share these tales of Trail Magic with you all...

● December 30th was amazing.  Our group walked through a nudist beach in Ruakaka.  We ate Fish n' Chips in Waipu (I eat fish n' chips everywhere here).  Then we found the most incredible campsite overlooking the Pacific Ocean on a hilltop. 

Immediately after capturing a scandalous butt photo for Facebook, we hear the sound of an ATV climbing the hillside to our site.  We met Jason, Frank, and Nicola who informed us that we were on private property, but we were welcome to camp there.  Two more ATV's came rumbling uphill.  Each of them carrying multiple passengers.

"Who are these terrorists?!?" grumbled the witty old man.  It was obvious that he had been drinking.  Or as Reyne would say, he was half-cut.  "This is my land, but you're welcome to camp all over it." 

The conversation with the locals evolved into an invitation to join their party down the hill at their cabin.  I encouraged the crew to embrace this unexpected magic, and down the hill we went!

We stumbled upon a backcountry cabin with music blaring and a fire roaring.  Soon we were drinking home-brewed ale and rum, playing cards, and painting murals on the cabin walls.  Reyne and I stayed an extra two hours laughing with the locals.  At the end of the night, we were chauffeured back up the hill via an exhilarating ATV ride.  We were given a huge jug of homebrew as a parting gift.  It was a crazy night.  One of many to come consecutively...

● On New Years Eve we gathered together on Pakiri Beach to celebrate.  I performed a rendition of The Lorax while Tobi played guitar.  We competed in a game of Scrumpy Hands, which is the Kiwi version of Edward 40-Hands.  Kate's friend James flew up from Christchurch to join us.

That's when the magic began!

James caught a fortuitous hitch to the Pakiri Beach.  (Kiwi hospitality is legendary.)  The hitch provider was a  friendly local named Tristan.  The hitch went so well that James invited Tristan to join us at our beachside extravaganza. 

Darkness fell,  the surf picked up, and our tents shook violently in the wind.

After a few more hours of debauchery our group was presented with an opportunity.  "A storm is coming. 180mm of rain in 24 hours.  You guys are welcome to crash at my place," Tristan eagerly proposed.  It took us awhile to consider the offer.  Honestly, Tristan repeated his New Years Eve alternative 16 times and I finally said, "Guys we have to take him up on this magic!"  Minutes later we were packing up and shuttling to a stranger's home for the countdown to the New Year.  Just after midnight, The Great Deluge of 2016 began.

We woke up on January 1st to find Tristan preparing farm fresh eggs and ham.  He cooked for nine people (while also providing space and hot showers for nine filthy hikers) out of the goodness of his heart.  He asked for nothing in return.  Tristan even offered us free accommodation for a second night, but we thanked him and explained how we had to return to the trail.  We didn't want to overstay our greatly appreciated welcome!

● The magic continued New Years Day as Reyne (Hilarious Kiwi), Sebastian (Romantic Frenchman), Maria (Newest Group Member - German) and I pulled ahead of the group only to get caught in another driving rain storm.  Our German friend Tobi was able to secure an earlier hitch into town even while looking like a dripping wet serial killer in his full-body durable poncho.  (This same hitch provider took Tobi out for tea once they got to town - what a country!)

After 4 more hours of walking we were certain that Tobi would be gone for good.  We headed into the town of Orewa at sunset to seek reprieve from the cold only to find that the hostels were booked. 

While drying out in Maccas (Kiwi slang term for McDonald's) we were able to convince a hostel owner to toss four thin mattresses down in a communal space for the night.  Amazingly, Tobi happened to be at that same hostel.

● January 2nd turned out to be a real treasure.  If you're still reading, this is when it gets good.  Reyne and I trudged through the rain together when suddenly a car pulled over.  With a surfboard stuffed in his backseat, and his eyes burning red from sea salt, a Te Araroa veteran pulled over to ask, "Are you guys thru-hiking?!" 

Luke completed Te Araroa in 2012-2013.  Our large packs looked all too familiar.  Within minutes, Luke invited Reyne and I to stay at his flat that night.  A few moments after arriving, Reyne and I were introduced to the game of the century...

Rules of Vase-ball (Copyright belongs to Luke, Michelle, Rory, Stephen, and Laura)

- In the center of a table, a cylindrical vase stands empty and upright.

- Participants entering the arena must have a drink in their hand.

- Ping pong balls must be shot from approximately 1-meter away.

- If a participant sinks a shot, they can nominate an opponent to take a drink.  The shot maker must remove their ping pong ball after a make.

- If another participant sinks a shot before an opponent's made shot is retrieved, the original shot maker drinks twice.

Ping pong balls were flying everywhere.  Before we knew it, Reyne and I were invited to go grab Vietnamese food in Takapuna with this energetic bunch.  Stephen even accomplished an unprecedented eating feat at the Vietnamese establishment.  The beer flowed like wine.  Cab fares and bus fares were covered by these kind strangers.  When we got back that night, Luke and Rory treated us to a musical performance of a lifetime.  Laura and Michelle made us feel like lifelong friends.  It was the greatest flat in the world!  It was a tough place to leave.  Thank you Luke, Michelle, Rory, Stephen, and Laura for your inimitable kindness!

● On January 3rd Reyne and I continued our coastal walk with Auckland's Sky Tower in sight.  Out of nowhere a wonderful man chased us down and asked us what we were hiking.  "Te Araroa,  New Zealand's Long Pathway," Reyne explained.  "We walked here from Cape Reinga." 

"Oh cool!" Marcus exclaimed. "Do you guys want to come in for a cold drink?!?"  We had only departed from Luke's an hour prior, but you learn to become a "Yes!" person on the trail.

Marcus brought us into his home, introduced to his wife and kids, and we proceeded to share travel stories.  We also had a lovely sidebar conversation about The Force Awakens.  Marcus and Sue really blew us away with their hospitality and their genuine interest in our journey.  Reyne and I left their home in the highest of spirits.  Receiving all of this unexpected magic certainly humbles and invigorates you.  It makes me want to be a more loving person.  The good karma of the Kiwi people is off the charts!  Thank you Marcus, Sue, Louis, and Ella for being so generous with your time.  You guys make me want to listen to the stories of others more intently.

I continued on my own into Devonport and got stopped by an elderly couple who were interested in my backpack.

"Where are you king with such a big pack?"

"To Bluff!"

"...I see... You'll want some of this chocolate then?"

I thanked them profusely.  What a week!  Kate, Rebekah, Otis, James, Sebastian, Reyne, and his lovely girlfriend Brooke all converged upon the Devonport Ferry site at once.  We were off to Auckland!  Rebekah and I did our best imitation of Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet as we approached Auckland.

Tobi, Manuela, and Maria were there to greet us.  The gang was back together, albeit temporarily.

Kate's cousin Tracey graciously allowed us to stay at her house for two days in Auckland.  We played a lot of Rummy Cube and had a farewell party for Tobi who was moving on to the South Island.

It's sad to lose a group member like Tobi.  I had so much fun getting to know him since Christmas Eve.  He has such a good soul!  Tobi was our bodysurfing champion!  He is full of life and eager to do anything.  It's crazy, Reyne and Sebastian met Tobi just before the 90 Mile Beach by Cape Reinga.  Tobi was simply starting his solo North Island vacation.  Reyne and Seb told him what they were doing, and Tobi just decided that he would walk Te Araroa too!!!  What an impulsive decision! (I call this, "pulling a Tobi.")  He ended up walking 600km on a whim!

At a pub in Auckland, Tobi told me that he was having one of the most amazing times of his life.  This was his last supper with the group.

His words stuck with me.  He was having a great time with this group.  It was emotional, it was powerful.

• • •

As we walked towards Hamilton, we were offered to sleep for free in two backyards.  One of them leads us back to the beginning of this blog post. 

While at Podge's, I thought of what Otis said, I thought about what Tobi said, I thought about what Groucho said.  None of this trail magic would have befallen us had the group dynamics been different.  This trail is keeping us together.  As Wildfire and Half Jesus used to say, "The trail provides!"

Kate, Rebekah, Otis, Sebastian, Reyne, Manuela, Maria, Tobi... This TA family has become a critical part of the journey.  It will only get better as our mate Tim returns this week! (He left the trail due to a foot injury before New Years Eve... and to do some wakeboarding / rollerblading because he's so damn interesting.)

It's time for me to pull a Tobi, look outside of myself, and commit to the group as long as possible. 

*****************

Godspeed Tobi, see you on the Appalachian Trail!