Look Outside

By Tyler Socash
IG: @tylerhikes

"Why are you thru-hiking?" Otis asked.  With Sweet Caroline playing in the background of Podge's Bar, friends dancing freely around the billiard table, and glasses half-full, it felt more like a hikertrash party than a thru-hike.

Surely a visceral connection with nature factors in.  The sense of freedom you feel while thru-hiking is comparable to being a 13-year old on summer vacation.  "Essentially, to have fun," I offered.

"Look around you..."

Otis was right.  I am surrounded by a phenomenal trail family.  Fun seems to find us wherever we go.  The gang doesn't want me to leave, I don't want to leave. 

This reminds me of hiking with the Wrong Way Gang, Wildfire, Half Jesus, Mantis, Chopstake, Spice Man, and Chili Pepper from the PCT.  I wished we all could have hiked the entire trail together.  Groucho once reminded me to, "look outside," whenever experiencing a challenge.  As I look outside of myself at the moment, I see all of my Te Araroa friends breaking into another rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody.  Looking outside of one's self allows for a new perspective.  You notice things like Sebastian the Frenchman attempting to learn Queen lyrics just to be included in another group activity!  I might as well bust out the falsetto voice and join them as well.

Speaking of the WWG, Harpo and Groucho pivide some insight into the overarching southbound saga in their amazing blog: https://songsoutofthecity.com/about/

"But I must press on!" I thought.  Bluff is still over two-thousand kilometers away...

On Christmas Eve I met a wonderful and diverse group of people.  They traveled far and wide to pursue Te Araroa as a thru-hike.  I warned them that I would be pressing onwards Christmas Day.  I had to stay on schedule. 

Something magical happened.  We laughed all night, played music on Otis's travel-sized guitar, and shared stories.  Our group grew close.  We became a trail family.  And just like that, 40km days became 20km days.  Being pulled into Podge's Bar was one of the many recent examples of Trail Magic our group has experienced.  I feel compelled to share these tales of Trail Magic with you all...

● December 30th was amazing.  Our group walked through a nudist beach in Ruakaka.  We ate Fish n' Chips in Waipu (I eat fish n' chips everywhere here).  Then we found the most incredible campsite overlooking the Pacific Ocean on a hilltop. 

Immediately after capturing a scandalous butt photo for Facebook, we hear the sound of an ATV climbing the hillside to our site.  We met Jason, Frank, and Nicola who informed us that we were on private property, but we were welcome to camp there.  Two more ATV's came rumbling uphill.  Each of them carrying multiple passengers.

"Who are these terrorists?!?" grumbled the witty old man.  It was obvious that he had been drinking.  Or as Reyne would say, he was half-cut.  "This is my land, but you're welcome to camp all over it." 

The conversation with the locals evolved into an invitation to join their party down the hill at their cabin.  I encouraged the crew to embrace this unexpected magic, and down the hill we went!

We stumbled upon a backcountry cabin with music blaring and a fire roaring.  Soon we were drinking home-brewed ale and rum, playing cards, and painting murals on the cabin walls.  Reyne and I stayed an extra two hours laughing with the locals.  At the end of the night, we were chauffeured back up the hill via an exhilarating ATV ride.  We were given a huge jug of homebrew as a parting gift.  It was a crazy night.  One of many to come consecutively...

● On New Years Eve we gathered together on Pakiri Beach to celebrate.  I performed a rendition of The Lorax while Tobi played guitar.  We competed in a game of Scrumpy Hands, which is the Kiwi version of Edward 40-Hands.  Kate's friend James flew up from Christchurch to join us.

That's when the magic began!

James caught a fortuitous hitch to the Pakiri Beach.  (Kiwi hospitality is legendary.)  The hitch provider was a  friendly local named Tristan.  The hitch went so well that James invited Tristan to join us at our beachside extravaganza. 

Darkness fell,  the surf picked up, and our tents shook violently in the wind.

After a few more hours of debauchery our group was presented with an opportunity.  "A storm is coming. 180mm of rain in 24 hours.  You guys are welcome to crash at my place," Tristan eagerly proposed.  It took us awhile to consider the offer.  Honestly, Tristan repeated his New Years Eve alternative 16 times and I finally said, "Guys we have to take him up on this magic!"  Minutes later we were packing up and shuttling to a stranger's home for the countdown to the New Year.  Just after midnight, The Great Deluge of 2016 began.

We woke up on January 1st to find Tristan preparing farm fresh eggs and ham.  He cooked for nine people (while also providing space and hot showers for nine filthy hikers) out of the goodness of his heart.  He asked for nothing in return.  Tristan even offered us free accommodation for a second night, but we thanked him and explained how we had to return to the trail.  We didn't want to overstay our greatly appreciated welcome!

● The magic continued New Years Day as Reyne (Hilarious Kiwi), Sebastian (Romantic Frenchman), Maria (Newest Group Member - German) and I pulled ahead of the group only to get caught in another driving rain storm.  Our German friend Tobi was able to secure an earlier hitch into town even while looking like a dripping wet serial killer in his full-body durable poncho.  (This same hitch provider took Tobi out for tea once they got to town - what a country!)

After 4 more hours of walking we were certain that Tobi would be gone for good.  We headed into the town of Orewa at sunset to seek reprieve from the cold only to find that the hostels were booked. 

While drying out in Maccas (Kiwi slang term for McDonald's) we were able to convince a hostel owner to toss four thin mattresses down in a communal space for the night.  Amazingly, Tobi happened to be at that same hostel.

● January 2nd turned out to be a real treasure.  If you're still reading, this is when it gets good.  Reyne and I trudged through the rain together when suddenly a car pulled over.  With a surfboard stuffed in his backseat, and his eyes burning red from sea salt, a Te Araroa veteran pulled over to ask, "Are you guys thru-hiking?!" 

Luke completed Te Araroa in 2012-2013.  Our large packs looked all too familiar.  Within minutes, Luke invited Reyne and I to stay at his flat that night.  A few moments after arriving, Reyne and I were introduced to the game of the century...

Rules of Vase-ball (Copyright belongs to Luke, Michelle, Rory, Stephen, and Laura)

- In the center of a table, a cylindrical vase stands empty and upright.

- Participants entering the arena must have a drink in their hand.

- Ping pong balls must be shot from approximately 1-meter away.

- If a participant sinks a shot, they can nominate an opponent to take a drink.  The shot maker must remove their ping pong ball after a make.

- If another participant sinks a shot before an opponent's made shot is retrieved, the original shot maker drinks twice.

Ping pong balls were flying everywhere.  Before we knew it, Reyne and I were invited to go grab Vietnamese food in Takapuna with this energetic bunch.  Stephen even accomplished an unprecedented eating feat at the Vietnamese establishment.  The beer flowed like wine.  Cab fares and bus fares were covered by these kind strangers.  When we got back that night, Luke and Rory treated us to a musical performance of a lifetime.  Laura and Michelle made us feel like lifelong friends.  It was the greatest flat in the world!  It was a tough place to leave.  Thank you Luke, Michelle, Rory, Stephen, and Laura for your inimitable kindness!

● On January 3rd Reyne and I continued our coastal walk with Auckland's Sky Tower in sight.  Out of nowhere a wonderful man chased us down and asked us what we were hiking.  "Te Araroa,  New Zealand's Long Pathway," Reyne explained.  "We walked here from Cape Reinga." 

"Oh cool!" Marcus exclaimed. "Do you guys want to come in for a cold drink?!?"  We had only departed from Luke's an hour prior, but you learn to become a "Yes!" person on the trail.

Marcus brought us into his home, introduced to his wife and kids, and we proceeded to share travel stories.  We also had a lovely sidebar conversation about The Force Awakens.  Marcus and Sue really blew us away with their hospitality and their genuine interest in our journey.  Reyne and I left their home in the highest of spirits.  Receiving all of this unexpected magic certainly humbles and invigorates you.  It makes me want to be a more loving person.  The good karma of the Kiwi people is off the charts!  Thank you Marcus, Sue, Louis, and Ella for being so generous with your time.  You guys make me want to listen to the stories of others more intently.

I continued on my own into Devonport and got stopped by an elderly couple who were interested in my backpack.

"Where are you king with such a big pack?"

"To Bluff!"

"...I see... You'll want some of this chocolate then?"

I thanked them profusely.  What a week!  Kate, Rebekah, Otis, James, Sebastian, Reyne, and his lovely girlfriend Brooke all converged upon the Devonport Ferry site at once.  We were off to Auckland!  Rebekah and I did our best imitation of Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet as we approached Auckland.

Tobi, Manuela, and Maria were there to greet us.  The gang was back together, albeit temporarily.

Kate's cousin Tracey graciously allowed us to stay at her house for two days in Auckland.  We played a lot of Rummy Cube and had a farewell party for Tobi who was moving on to the South Island.

It's sad to lose a group member like Tobi.  I had so much fun getting to know him since Christmas Eve.  He has such a good soul!  Tobi was our bodysurfing champion!  He is full of life and eager to do anything.  It's crazy, Reyne and Sebastian met Tobi just before the 90 Mile Beach by Cape Reinga.  Tobi was simply starting his solo North Island vacation.  Reyne and Seb told him what they were doing, and Tobi just decided that he would walk Te Araroa too!!!  What an impulsive decision! (I call this, "pulling a Tobi.")  He ended up walking 600km on a whim!

At a pub in Auckland, Tobi told me that he was having one of the most amazing times of his life.  This was his last supper with the group.

His words stuck with me.  He was having a great time with this group.  It was emotional, it was powerful.

• • •

As we walked towards Hamilton, we were offered to sleep for free in two backyards.  One of them leads us back to the beginning of this blog post. 

While at Podge's, I thought of what Otis said, I thought about what Tobi said, I thought about what Groucho said.  None of this trail magic would have befallen us had the group dynamics been different.  This trail is keeping us together.  As Wildfire and Half Jesus used to say, "The trail provides!"

Kate, Rebekah, Otis, Sebastian, Reyne, Manuela, Maria, Tobi... This TA family has become a critical part of the journey.  It will only get better as our mate Tim returns this week! (He left the trail due to a foot injury before New Years Eve... and to do some wakeboarding / rollerblading because he's so damn interesting.)

It's time for me to pull a Tobi, look outside of myself, and commit to the group as long as possible. 

*****************

Godspeed Tobi, see you on the Appalachian Trail!